Milies-Panagiotiko dam-Neochori

The water reservoir  of Panagiotiko dam

Distance: 12 km

Time: 5 hours (with stops)

Altitude: from 173 m. (minimum) to 462 m. (maximum)

Total elevation gain: 454 m. Total elevation loss: 540 m.

Signing: red paint, small round signs

Drinking water on walk: no

Start: Milies square   Finish: Neochori square

Last checked: 27//11/ 2023

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    The first half of this route is the same as the route Milies-Neochori. However, as we are getting near the Panagiotiko dam and its artificial lake, we do not take the dirt road to Panagia Tourkogianni, but, descending a little lower, we walk on the path used by the inhabitants of Neochori to get to Zervochia and Boufa. This path was surveyed and cleared by volunteers in the winter and spring of 2023.

Agios Nikolaos church

         We start from Milies village square and follow the asphalt road going downhill. A hundred meters further down, after we pass a parking lot which is down to our right,as the asphalt takes a slight turn to the right, we go diagonally left onto a wide cobblestone that goes uphill. We reach an intersection and take the wide paved track on the right, which soon begins to go downhill. It becomes a cobblestone kalderimi, then a cement road and we cross the asphalt at the exit of Milies village towards Tsagarada, next to the last house of the village, at a point where the asphalt turns left and there is a traffic control mirror.

        We now walk on beautiful old kalderimi, which continues opposite, descending to a ravine with lush vegetation. Further down, at a bend in the kalderimi to the left, there is a branch to our right that used to serve people using the train station. For information, this branch leads to the main road Milies-Volos at a sharp bend, 200 metres below the junction that leads to the train station.

Kalderimi at Pavlakia

        The kalderimi we are following, which is kept clear and in good condition, crosses the stream bed (Kakorema) and climbs up the opposite side with an olive grove to its right. When we reach the top of the ridge we meet an earth road. Here is a kalderimi crossing and we can get to Agios Nikolaos by both ways. We prefer to cross the road and, descending gently, the kalderimi opens to another road. This leads  us after a hundred metres down to the old church of Agios Nikolaos, a remnant of the monastery that existed here. Here is a good place to have a stop. Unfortunately, we are not able to admire the notable frescos inside the church, as its doors remain locked.  

Fresco from Agios Nikolaos (photo: Teo Gavardinas)

        Retracing our steps back, we easily find the continuity of the kalderimi on the other side of the road and follow it to the east. We cross two small stream beds, pass by an old abandoned hut and eventually the kalderimi ends, where it comes out onto an earth road, along which we walk uphill. The wider  area  is called Pavlakia. 

   Further up, we come out onto the earth road that comes from the settlement of Stavrodromi. We turn to the left (east) and then after a hundred metres at a fork we go to the right (southeast) onto a narrow earth road that brings us out at a flat area with a threshing floor and a row of cypress trees to the right. Just after the threshing floor, we go left and find a path that descends heading east. We cross a small stream bed, pass a derelict hut on our right and then we take the right hand path at a fork. This area was burnt in a recent fire, but is already turning green again. We cross another stream and then meet an earth road, which we follow downhill. Below us we see the Panayiotiko dam with the lake that has been formed in the valley of Platanorema river - a beautiful and peaceful picture.

        A little further down we have a crossroads with a post, where we go right. Attention, if we go left here as  indicated by the arrow on the signpost, we will get to Neochori via Panagia Tourkogianni church. We keep descending the road and approaching the dam. At the next junction we go left (Attention!) onto an abandoned road, which runs just above the water level. Paying attention to our left, we soon see the red sign that marks the entrance to the path. We are now walking on a  path, which initially goes uphill and we pass abvove a ruined hut, finding a couple of sections of kalderimi here and there.

    After a while, the kalderimi-path ends as we cross a stream, and we continue uphill on a dirt road. We avoid road intersections to the right as we are climbing. Further up, on a wide right turn that the road makes, the path goes straight ahead and after a few meters joins the Milies-Neochori route, which comes from Panagia Tourkogianni church. From this point on, we are walking on the Milies-Neochori route. The path climbs and  joins a dirt road, which joins the main asphalt, which then crosses a bridge and makes a right turn. Here we leave the asphalt at an angle to the left, walking on a paved track through the village, and keep following the red marks to the square of Neochori.

Neochori village square

Pouri-Megalovrachos waterfalls (circular)

Distance: 8,3 km.

Time: 5 hours with stops

Altitude: from 418 m. (Pouri parking lot) to 680 m. (Profitis Elias chapel)

Total elevation gain/loss: 503 m.

Signing: red paint

Drinking water on walk: Panagia Rasova church, Pouri

Last checked: June 2023

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.       The waterfall of  Megalovrachos is located in the Kalokairinos stream, between Zagora and Pouri. It is the largest and most impressive of Pelion, with a height (estimated) of over 50 meters. There is plenty of water in the spring when the snow melts, but in the summer it dries up. It is located in a difficult place and visiting it has certain requirements (adequate `physical condition, suitable shoes). In order to enjoy the special experience, our visit should preferably take place in the months of March-May. In this particular case, before the visit to the waterfall we passed by the chapel Ilias Pouriou and the old monastery of Panagia Rasova, thus making a varied circular walk starting and ending in Pouri. One can go up to Rasova using a concrete road (for cars with increased ground clearance), that opens to the asphalt road between Zagora and Pouri (there is a sign to "Panagia Rasova"in Greek).

        Starting from the parking lot of Pouri, we climb to the central church of Agios Dimitrios and continue uphill, following the Makrinitsa-Pouri route in reverse, helped by the red signs. We pass by a building of the water system (for a few meters, if the path is overgrown, we are forced to walk next to it, through the adjacent grove) and continue on an uphill dirt road. Paying attention to the red signs on the left, we enter a path for a while and then again on a road that continues uphill to the small church of Prophitis Elias. Next to the church there is a kiosk and the view to the south and east is excellent. 

View from Profitis Elias

        We continue on the road, which is now descending, and below we turn right entering a grove. We cross a small stream and then join a rural road which, descending, brings us to the old monastery of Panagia Rasova. This is one of the oldest monasteries of Pelion and specifically among the five oldest on the mountain of the Centaurs. It was created around 1250 AD, maybe earlier. Evidence of the monastery exists since 1270 AD. It is a large monastery of old time with cells all around. Today only the church (the catholicon) is preserved, and not in a good condition. Many murals have also been damaged. Maintenance attempts were made from time to time with props and various repairs. As for the cells and other buildings, these have long since collapsed and destroyed. The monastery has been abandoned for many years, since the last monk passed away in 1885. Lately, after damages caused by poachers looking for golden pounds, the church door is always locked, except on its feast day on November 21 ( Entrances of the Virgin). 

Panagia Rasova

        We descend a little more on the road and then turn right through a grove. At the intersection there is a hut. The road below terminates and continues as a path that is difficult in some places, going parallel to a water pipe.

Crossing the first  stream

            We easily cross a first smaller stream and continue to reach the main stream. The waterfall is a little higher and cannot be seen from here. We cross the stream and on the other bank we climb steeply on a narrow and difficult path (attention!), helped by the red signs. Finally we reach the base of the great waterfall. The sight and feeling is fantastic, difficult to descrbe with words, especially when the stream brings down a lot of water. 

Congrats to Despina for researching and marking

        We return by the same path back to the hut below Rasova and continue on the downhill road. Further down, seeing the cedar tree, we go left into an estate, which we cross and on the other side we walk on a cement road. Meeting the first houses of Pouri we find a narrow downhill cobblestone that takes us down to the asphalt, at the entrance of the village.

Κato Gatzea-Agii Apostoli church-Agios Georgios

View to Pagasitic sea

 

Distance: 12,4 km.

Time: 5,5 hours with stops

Altitude: from 0 m. (Kato Gatzea) to 698 m. (max)

Total climbing uphill/downhill: 704 m.

Signing; red paint, some small yellow round signs

Drinking water on walk: Agios Georgios, Agia Triada

Start/end: Kato Gatzea (mooring area)

Last checked: March 2023

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      Our walk starts from the beach of Kato Gatzea, at the mooring point. We walk away from the sea, passing by the Croma Villas complex and come out onto the main asphalt near the pharmacy. We cross it and continue opposite on a narrow asphalt road towards the sports center (football field), Next to it lies the cemetery of Gatzea. Then, as the main road turns left, we continue straight ahead on a narrow dirt road,  in which a little further on we can make out sections of kalderimi (cobbled stone path). We cross the asphalt (it goes to Agia Triada) and climb steeply on a cement road. Here the cement has covered the kalderimi. 

        A  little further up, however, the cobblestone appears at the right side of the road, wide and clean and we follow it. We cross the train rails over the stone bridge by the name of Koudrias and continue climbing. Further up, another  kalderini joins in on our left, coming from the train station of Ano Gatzea and from the bridge that crosses the rails there. 

    Our kalderimi ends as it joins the asphalt, just above Agia Triada near the old olive press of Klimentopoulos which lies next to the road. We walk on the asphalt for five hundred meters, cross the stream and immediately after that, on the right side of the road we find a narrow  uphill path that brings us to the church of the Holy Apostles (Agii Apostoli). Seeing the ruined buildings, we understand that this is in fact an old deserted monastery (it belongs to the Taxiarchon monastery). 

Agii Apostoli

    A wide path ascends from the upper side of the ruins. We reach a small plateau where we go diagonally to the right and descend smoothly to cross the stream. The path then climbs with turns and we reach the lower limit of an olive grove. Going up into the grove, we meet the concrete irrigation ditch and along that, the western kalderimi coming from Agia Triada and going to Agios Georgios. At the junction there is a signpost. We continue straight ahead uphill, paying attention to our left not to miss the continuity of the path, which is marked with red paint. Attention, if we miss the junction and go straight ahead, we will end up joining the eastern kalderimi, thus missing Agios Georgios altogether.

        We cross a stream and further on we cross a dirt road. The irrigation ditch, when we passed in March, brought down enough water and it leaked on the path, making our life more difficult. Finally we come out on the asphalt, where we walk uphill for 200 meters and then, where it makes a left turn, we leave it straight and walk over a small stone bridge. We have now joined the main kalderimi from Ano Gatzea to Agios Georgios. Following its course, we pass an intersection where a branch goes to the right towards Pinakates and also  towards the eastern cobblestone (we don`t take that branch). Higher up, we cross the asphalt and continue on a cement road (ex-kalderimi) and join the asphalt near Vogiatzopoulos mansion,  finally reaching the square of Agios Georgios.

Agios Georgios village square

        On the way back now, to avoid walking on the main asphalt, we go up on the main kalderimi from the square. We can fill our bottles from the drinking water fountain. Reaching the remarkable church of Agios Athanasios higher up, we turn right and take a concrete, slightly downhill  road that brings us to the location "Rachi" at the exit of the village towards Pinakates, where there is a blacksmith shop and a fire station. We cross the asphalt diagonally (the view down below is extraordinary) and continue downhill on the eastern kalderimi heading  towards Agia Triada.

View from Rachi

        The water of the irrigation ditch flows rapidly, creating small waterfalls. Reaching the  door of the fence of a mansion, we take the dirt road downhill, becoming cobblestone. We move for a while in a pristine, very beautiful setting in the forest. Lower down, the kalderimi is cut by a dirt road twice. On the third time, it ends and we continue on a downhill dirt road. The road brings us to the old olive press of Vainas, from where we follow down the kalderimi to get to Agia Triada, at the parking lot with the drinking water fountain (we may open the tap on the side to drink and then close it). 

Old olive press of Vainas

      A kalderimi descends from the fountain and we follow it. Further down we cross the asphalt and continue in a straight line on a narrow cement-paved road that is actually the old kalderimi (there is a sign in Greek pointing to Kouvara`s house). We come out again on the asphalt, where we walk for about three hundred meters. Then we find the continuity of the cobblestone on the right (not obvious at the beginning, attention right!) we go down and cross the train tracks. Going steadily downhill, we take a concrete road to the left and in a few meters the kalderimi is again visible on our right. Below, it descends next to a house. Eventually the cobblestone disappears and we descend on a concrete road, which exits on the main asphalt near the gas station. To avoid the unpleasant walking on the main asphalt, we prefer to walk through olive groves parallel to the road, which is on our left at a small distance, and continue on a narrow road. Reaching a junction with the road to the cemetery, we turn left, on the route we took at the beginning of our walk, and finally reach the picturesque beach of Kato Gatzea with its cafes and restaurants.    

Kato Gatzea seaside

Boufa (Koropi)-Panagiotiko Dam-Neochori

Just above the Panagiotiko reservoir

Distance: 9,5 km.

Time: 4,5 h    

Altitude:  from  7 m. (Boufa) to 462 m. (Neochori square)

Total climbing up:581 m. Total descent|: 128 m.

Signed with red paint and some round yellow signs

Drinking water on walk: Neochori

Start: east end of Boufa, at the point where the straight section of the asphalt road ends

End: Neochori village square

Last checked: June 2023

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      Ιn the old days, this was the road of communication between Neohori, its settlement  Zervochia and the fertile valley of Boufa. Travelers would start from Neochori walking on the northern bank of the Platanorema ravine. They would cross the stream over the stone arched bridge of Taratsa (or Malamaki) and would continue on the southern bank, until they reached their destination. Today the stone bridge is lost, buried in the bottom of the Panagiotiko Dam, so we now cross over the dam. The span of the arch of the lost  bridge was 5.80 m and the height 4.60 m, measured by Nikos Haratsis in his book ''Stone arched bridges of Pelion'' (in Greek). 

The bridge of Malamaki, now lost forever (photo: Nikos Haratsis)

      In the rest of the route, the original path is preserved for quite some distance, incorporating short sections of cobblestone. Some parts of it have become rural roads. In general, this is a very nice route, best to walk in spring or autumn. It was researched and cleaned by volunteers in the winter and spring of 2023. We can leave our car in Boufa and  return  by the bus (depending on the bus schedule, see www.ktelvolou.gr). Another option for this path, is to make a circular route Neochori-Zervochia-Niaou (Afetes)-Neochori.  If we are walking Milies-Neochori, we can use the more pleasant section from the dam to Neochori, (see the route Milies-Panagiotiko dam-Neochori ),instead of walking on the standard route that is passing by Panagia Tourkogianni church.

The artificial lake of Panagiotiko

    I will describe the route starting from Boufa. The start, marked with a red paint arrow, is at the eastern edge of Boufa, at the end of the main asphalt straight section, where the uphill turns to Afissos begin. It should be noted here that at a distance of 700 meters from this point, there is the beach "Paradisos", where in the summer there is a refreshment bar and a tavern. To walk to Neohori we first take the narrow rural road that generally runs straight northeast. In 500 meters, there is a fork where the left road is cement paved. We take the right road and in thirty meters at another fork we take the left road that goes uphill with turns. Higher up there is another intersection, where we also go left. The road ends and a path continues next to low dry stone walls. Going gently uphill, we turn right (south) for a short while and we are happy to find elements of cobblestone on our way. Following the cobblestone path, we pass through olive groves, walking generally in  a northeastern direction. 

       A little further on, the path is closed for thirty meters by fallen branches from the pruning of olive trees, and we haved to bypass the closed part from below (the owner of the olive grove has promised to remove the branches). The path continues and comes to the end of a rural road, which we follow, always in a north-easterly direction. We reach a triple junction, where the road on the right goes to Zervohia, while we continue straight ahead in the same direction. Further on, we leave the intersection to Pavlakia-Milies on our left and continue straight,  ignoring the uphill road on the right. Our road ends smoothly in an olive grove and a slightly uphill path continues  in the same direction.

    Higher up, the path is abruptly cut off by a dirt track (a rural road). We follow it uphill and in twenty meters at the intersection we go left uphill. The road soon ends and we find the path again. In front of us we see the wild northern slope of the Platanorema ravine with its large tower-like rocks and hear the water flowing below- it is advisable to stop for a few minutes to enjoy the feeling. We cross a small stream and further on the path opens to a road that serves the dam and we have to climb down the rocky slope for a few meters.

        We walk on the road uphill for a short while to  reach the dam. and we cross over to the northern slope. At the first intersection we go right on a disused road, which runs a little above the water level. Paying attention to our left as we walk, we see the red sign marking the entrance to the path. We now walk again on the restored path, which initially goes uphill and we pass above a ruined hut, finding a couple of kalderimi sections.

       Further on, we cross a stream and continue steadily uphill on a dirt road. We ignore road intersections to the right as we climb uphill. Higher up, on a wide right turn of the road, a path leaves strairht ahead, and in a few meters we join the Milies-Neochori route, which comes from Panagia Tourkogianni church. We are now walking on the Milies-Neochori route. The path higher up opens to a dirt road, which leads to the asphalt, we cross the asphalt bridge and then follow the red signs to the square of Neochori.

Crossing of Tisseon, west part (Panagia-Tsitsourava peak 424 m.-Trikeri-Agia Kyriaki)

Αegean Blue

Distance: 9,4 km.

Time: 6 hours

Altitude: from 15 m. (Panagia) to 424 m. (Tsitsourava peak) to 0 m. (Agia Kyriaki)

Total elevation gain:  629 m.  Total elevation loss: 641 m. 

Signing: red paint marks, cairns

Drinking water on walk: no

Start: Panagia chapel (signpost on the asphalt road)

End: Agia Kyriaki harbour

Last checked: December 2022

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        This is the western part of the Tisseon crossing. Starting from the chapel of Panagia next to the asphalt, we climb towards the Karatassos pit and then, moving along the ridge to the west, we reach the village of Trikeri, from where we finally descend to finish in Agia Kyriaki. The route has spots that offer excellent views of the Aegean sea and Pagasitic gulf.

        From Panagia to Karatassos clearing we walk through mixed Mediterranean vegetation that offers enough shade, but then the holly trees dominate on stony ground, as is the case in the rest of Tisseon. This makes walking more tiring and at the same time requires continuous attention, because the stones slip treacherously if wet from the morning moisture. And the holly trees (quercus coccifera) have a tendency to flare up in the absence of a goat flock, making it difficult to pass. Nevertheless, the route is expected to be cleaned and signposted within 2023, along with others, with money from the European Leader program.

           Note: the new recording of the route near the peak of Tsitsourava at 424 m. is more correct, easier and offers a much better view than the previous recording, shown on the maps so far. We recommend it.

           On the road from Milina to Trikeri, after the fish farm, we see by the road the sign (in Greek) ΙΕΡΟΣ ΝΑΟΣ ΠΑΝΑΓΙΑΣ, meaning "Holy Church of Virgin Mary (Panagia)"). The church is located a little lower, close to the sea and is not visible from the asphalt. Next to the road there is also a fallen marble commemorative plaque that refers to the battles fought here by the rebel Greeks, led by Karatassos, with the Turkish army under Mahmud pascha (Kiutachi) in 1823.

The path near Panagia

         A signpost on the other side of the road marks the beginning of the path. It climbs through a maquis forest. We pass a first small uphill glade and soon we come out to a large, elongated clearing, named after Karatassos. Approximately in the middle, there is a cairn marking  the path that leads to the peak Evzonos (644 m.) to the left.

       We do not follow this, but continue straight ahead on a westerly diretion. From the upper edge of Karatassos glade we find a path with red markings, that heads west-southwest. We pass through a couple of other clearings and eventually we reach a small rocky plateau. If we stand on the edge of the cliff that is to our left, we will have a wonderful view towards the Aegean.

         From here on, the path becomes unclear, as we climb into stony ground with holly oak vegetation. We walk close to the edge of the cliff in the direction of the pillar of the Tsitsourava peak (424 m.) and the wind measuring mast next to it. Note: this beautiful and unique natural environment is in danger of becoming a wind  farm by greedy investors,  thus suffering an irreversible damage. Let us hope this will never be allowed to happen.

        After reaching the top, we continue in the same direction, passing close to a cairn on our left.

            Finding a passage through the holly trees, we descend and reach a small glade at the foot of the hill in front of us. From there, moving in a westerly direction, we climb on a narrow goat-path, pass by another small glade and climb to the top of the next hill.

Trikeri at a distance

       

         Keeping the same direction, after a while the path brings us to another hill (Kastro (Castle), 281 m.), where we meet a wall that extends for quite some time on the ridge and we walk next to it. This was built during the Greek revolution, at the time of the battles with the army of  pasha Kioutachi in 1823 (more information can be found in the book of  Kostas Liapis "Tα Παλιόκαστρα του Πηλίου'', Ta Paleokastra tou Piliou-The old castles of Pelion (in Greek, Volos 2010).

Κastro

        Continuing in the same western direction, we pass by another mast and further down we come out on a dirt road, at the location called Diakopi, near a pen. In a few meters we meet the asphalt that goes to Agia Kyriaki on the left. 

Agia Kyriaki

        Here in Diakopi we have two options: either we will walk for half an hour downhill on the asphalt to go to Agia Kyriaki, or we will go straight uphill on the dirt road, which will take us to the cemetery of Trikeri and then, as a stone paved road, to the village square (a 2-3 meter section of the old kalderimi still survives near the cemetery).

Trikeri square (in summer)

        From the square we will descend on a nice cobblestone road towards Agia Kyriaki. For this second option, which we followed here, the time from Diakopi to Agia Kyriaki is one hour and 15'. In the picturesque port of Agia Kyriaki, at least one restaurant-café operates all year round.

Platanias-Lafkos (circular)

Distance: 13,6 km

Time: 4 hours walking time, 5 hours with stops

Altitude: from 0 m. (Platanias) to 303 m. (Lafkos square) to 385 m. (max)

Total elevation gain/loss:  623 m.

Signing: red paint, round yellow signs

Drinking water on walk: Lafkos

Start/finish: Platanias beach

Last checked: 16/2/2015

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      This circular route combines the two existing routes between the two villages, climbing from Platanias to Lafkos on the main kalderimi via Agios Nikolaos chapel and coming back by the western route, that passes by the Lafkos cemetery and the chapel of Epano (Upper) Ai Giannis. It is better to start from Platanias, in order to have most of the uphill sections at the beginning of the walk. At the tourist beach of Platanias, which has regular bus service (www.ktelvolou.gr), and at Lafkos of course, there are restaurants and guest houses that operate all year round. 

LATEST UPDATE 16/2/2025: The kalderimi from Lafkos cemetery to Agios Ioannis chapel is blocked by landslides and vegetation.

        Starting from the seaside of Platanias, we first walk through the wide bed of Chalorema stream. At the basketball court we turn left and walk on a dirt road that goes uphill to the west, with a small stream on our left. Further up we reach an intersection, where we go right heading north.

        A little further on, the road makes an S and we pass by a stone hut. Just a few meters after the hut we go diagonally to the right, on a path that enters an olive grove. Observing the signs, we cross the olive grove, and continue on a path that soon descends to cross the small stream of Poros. The path shows sections of cobblestone (kalderimi) climbs with turns and then we join at an angle a dirt road, which climbs straight ahead to the small church of Agios Nikolaos. In this peaceful and shady place, we will definitely make a stop. 

Agios Nikolaos chapel

      After the chapel, we pass a house and then the road forks to the left. The path normally continued straight ahead through the olive grove, but it is unclear and we prefer to go uphill on the road. We reach an intersection, where we find again the path that goes up between the two roads. This part, like other parts of the route, was previously closed by vegetation and was cleared in the winter of 2011 thanks to the efforts of the Friends of the Kalderimi of South Pelion and the Volos Alpine Club.

       Further up we get back on the road to the left and after a hundred meters, paying attention to the red signs on the right, we find the path that goes up again. We pass by a water tank, which we leave on our right, and enter the asphalt road that comes from Mikro beach. A wide dirt road (going to be asphalted) leads to the right towards the monastery of Agios Spyridon.

     Here normally the path continued straight ahead northwest, on the left boundary of the estate in front of us. But it is blocked by vegetation and fenced, so we walk down on the road making a smooth curve around the estate. Further on, where the road turns left, we go straight uphill on the wide path. Soon we meet the road again and cross it at an angle, continuing northwest on a narrow kalderimi. Here is the highest point of our route (385 meters) and we can see in front of us the village of Lafkos and the sea of Pagasitic gulf.

Approaching Lafkos

        The kalderimi joins the main asphalt Lafkos-Promyri below the electricity substation, and we follow the asphalt until the intersection. Here we go straight uphill on a paved road for a few meters and immediately to the right. We are already inside the village of Lafkos and we follow the stone paved street that leads to the square. It took us about 2h 15' to get here (walking time 1.50') covering a distance of 6.2 kilometers. 

Lafkos square in winter

     After resting and having a coffee or refreshment in the picturesque square of Lafkos (next to the church there is the museum of paintings by the remarkable painter Thanasis Fabas, which is definitely worth a visit if it is open), we follow the central kalderimi back (to the south). At a signed V-junction we take the right branch. Further down we cross the asphalt and continue opposite, reaching the cemetery of Lafkos.

Going down from the Lafkos cemetery

    A dirt road continues to the right of the cemetery, and we follow it. As we descend, we enjoy wonderful views of Pagasitic sea, with the islet of Alatas in the foreground. If we pay attention, we will also see some remnants of cobblestone in the earth road. Further down, as the road makes a smooth left turn, we continue straight ahead downhill, finding the kalderimi. This brings us to the chapel of Agios Ioannis Theologos, called "Epano Ai Giannis" and nicknamed "Sti Sara", from the loose stones in the bed of the stream. Below the chapel passes the route that comes from Milina- Pighes on a dirt road (Milina-Platanias and Milina-Chondri Ammos-Valtoudi routes). 

Epano Ai Giannis chapel

       After a stop to enjoy the beauty and tranquility of the landscape, we follow the dirt road now to the left (southeast), ignore another road that goes uphill and shortly we reach the bed of the stream called Koumani stream or Koumanorema (in previous editions of the Anavasi map it is referred wrongly as Ammorema), at a point where it is joined by a smaller stream on the left.

Walking next to Koumani stream

       Here, the road crosses the main stream to the right (heading to Chondri Ammos ). Another road, which we follow, goes uphill to the left. We keep following the earth road climbing constantly. At junctions we meet, we take the most steep climbing branch.  The section of the original path-kalderimi on the left of the road is blocked by stones fallen during the construction of the road. Climbing up, we pass by a grove with chestnut trees, and higher up we join at an angle another road. We go left (east) and after fifty meters we leave the road  to the right, seeing the signpost. Here we descend gently towards a small stream walking on a narrow goat path. 

Walking on goat tracks

         After crossing the stream, the path climbs smoothly on the opposite slope, makes a curve and crosses a second small stream in the same way. We climb smoothly again and on the ridge we meet a narrow abandoned farm road, which we follow uphill. Eventually, we come out onto the asphalt that leads to Mikro beach. We walk on the asphalt for fifty meters downhill and, as it turns right, we leave it and go straight ahead. In front of us is a small plateau with two concrete pillars on the right.

      We walk on the plateau straight ahead in an easterly direction and, seeing the signpost, we find the path with the red marks, descending smoothly. A little further down, observing the signs, we turn right onto a narrow path and begin to descend diagonally down the slope towards a shallow ravine. After crossing it, we continue uphill walking on goat tracks (the path is unclear here) and come to a dirt road, which runs parallel to the ravine. There is an intersection with another dirt road that goes uphill, and we follow this, going through an olive grove. At another intersection a little further on we go straight ahead.

Seeing the Aegean sea

          On the ridge there is on our right an abandoned quarry and we now can see the Aegean sea in front of us. The road turns right, but we continue straight ahead downhill to the border of a grove and in thirty meters we find the continuity of the path on our left, descending between low scrubby vegetation. Lower down, we join the road again, which keeps descending making a right turn and we follow it for about a hundred meters.

      As we reach a small plateau that we see in front of us, we turn left and leave the road (attention to the signs) descending on a narrow path, which in a few meters comes at the upper limit of an olive grove. We descend into this olive grove with zig-zags (the path here is unclear), next to the vegetation that serves as a border of the neighboring grove. Alternatively, we may prefer to climb down less steeply, following from the edge of the plateau a narrow  earth road that was recently constructed to service the adjacent grove.

Approaching Platanias

        Soon we come down on the same dirt road, on which we walked at the beginning of our route. We reach the intersection where we go left and go downhill with the stream next to us on the right. The road finally ends at the bed of the large stream (Chalorema), next to the basketball court. Following the stream, we soon reach the picturesque beach of Platanias.

At Platanias harbour