Friday, July 12, 2019

Κala Nera-Vizitsa-Milies train station (circular)

View to Milies
Distance: 13,3 km
Time: about 6 h total, moving time 4.45'
Altitude: from 0 m. (Kala Nera) to 520 m. max (Vizitsa square)
Total elevation gain/loss: 694 m.
Signed with red paint and yellow metal signs
Drinking water on walk: yes
Start/finish: Kala Nera beach at the bus turn
Download GPS track: from Wikiloc
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         This is an excellent circular walk, mostly on kalderimi, climbing from the beach of Kala Nera to Vizitsa and returning back via the train station of Milies. Points of interest on our way include the waterfall Katafidi near Vizitsa, the old monastery of Agios Ioannis Prodromos (St. John the Baptist) at Vizitsa, the metallic train bridge and the tiny chapel of Taxiarchis near Milies train station, and, finally, the cave of ''Centaur Chiron'' (see Pelion: mythology and history).
          Starting from the bus turn at the seaside of Kala Nera, we walk away from the sea on the asphalt road. We come to cross the main asphalt at an angle to the right (attention to traffic!) and on the other side continue on an earth path next to a house which is on our right. The path soon becomes cobblestone kalderimi, ascending through olive groves.
          On our way up we walk through the cottages of the settlement ''Argireika'', including an old olive press. Many inhabitants of Vizitsa preferred to stay here through winter, to  be nearer to their olive groves and to avoid heavy winter snow, which is not unusual in Pelion. This was common practice in most Pelion villages.
             Further up, we walk for a short distance on earth road. There is an open irrigation water tank on our left. After that, we find the kalderimi again, overgrown with vegetation but still passable (in spring 2019). Eventually it opens at an angle to a wider earth road, next to the small chapel of Timios Stavros. From here we can see Vizitsa in the middle, Milies to the right and Pinakates to the left. There is a large ravine, which we will have to cross, between our position and Vizitsa.
View to Vizitsa
          So, we conitinue on the road downhill. Further on, it becomes asphalt. At a sharp right turn we leave it and walk at a straight line on a narrow earth road, which becomes kalderimi and we come to cross the stream over a small concrete bridge. Shortly after that, watching on our left, we find a path that leads to the waterfall ''Katafidi''. This is an excellent spot, especially early in spring, when the flow of water is high. The waterfall is dry through summer and autumn but remains impressive nonetheless.
Katafidi waterfall (in spring)
            Returning back to the wide, well-crafted kalderimi, higher up it suffers from landslides, so we have to abandon it and walk on an earth track. Coming to a junction, we find the kalderimi up left, next to a shrine. It keeps climbing up and we enter Vizitsa, passing by the main church of  Zoodochos Pighi, then crossing the asphalt road and finally we arrive at the cosy village square. This is the highest point of our walk (520 m.), where we can have a refreshment or a snack. 
Vizitsa square
           Returning back to the asphalt, we walk on this to the left. In a little while, we pass by the women`s association ''Esperides''  where local products are sold, and then turn right on a kalderimi that leads to the tiny 18th century monastery of  Aghios Ioannis Prodromos (St. John the Baptist).
The monastery`s church entrance
        Since 2017 it is looked after by sister Markella, who can also guide us around. 
From the entrance of the monastery we continue downhill on a path just next to the monastery`s outer wall and join a wide descending kalderimi. 
         We pass by a roofed drinking water fountain on our left and then join an earth road, on which we walk downhill. Passing under the village`s cemetery, we cross an asphalt road and continue on a path which soon becomes kalderimi.  On our right is the large overgrown Miliotiko ravine. At the opposite bank we can make the white chapel of Timios Stavros and, if we look carefully, the chapel of Taxiarchis built midway on the cliff. 
         Further down, the kalderimi becomes earth path and we come to a path junction. We elect the right branch, which further down opens to the train rails and we follow them to the right to visit the bridge. In five minutes we reach the magnificent metallic bridge, which was constructed in the beginning of 20th century by Schneider, a German specialist engineer, under the supervision of Italian chief engineer Evaristo de Chirico.
The metallic train bridge
            Just after we pass over the bridge, we find a narrow ascending path and follow it climbing steadily. At a junction we take the left branch.  After climbing some steps built with stones, we walk on a narrow lane on the nearly vertical rock, that leads to the tiny chapel of Taxiarchis,  built on the edge of the cliff, accompanied by the birds, waiting every day to hear the shuffle of the little train  passing below.
The path on the cliff
              Tracing our steps back, we follow the rails to get to the train station of Milies (end of the train line). We continue on the asphalt for 100 m. (on the left an uphill kalderimi leads to the square of Milies) and then find the kalderimi to Kala Nera next to a small drinking water fountain and follow it downhill. Wide and clear, it winds down to cross the Miliotiko stream over a concrete bridge and continues on the other bank between olive groves. At some point there is signpost on the left side, indicating a large cave, called somewhat arbitrarily Centaur Chiron`s cave.
          Further on, we join at an angle an earth road, on which we walk for 100 m. to find the continuity of the kalderimi on the left. Eventually the kalderimi ends and we continue walking on an earth road, which later becomes paved with concrete as it passes by the cemetery of Kala Nera and then joins the main asphalt. At the juction lie a few cypress trees and a road sign to ''Argireika''. We walk on the main asphalt for 100 m. and then, at the junction with the kalderimi coming from Vizitsa, turn left on the asphalt road that opens down to the seaside of Kala Nera, at the point of the bus turn, from where our walk had started.
Kala Nera beach (off season)

Thursday, July 4, 2019


Distance: 8,2 km
Time: 3 hours with stops
Altitude: from 200 m. (Promiri) to 0 m. (Katigiorgis)
Total elevation gain: 115 m. Total elevation loss: 336 m.
Signed with red paint and round yellow signs
Drinking water on walk: no
Start: Gas station at the entrance of Promiri
End: Katigiorgis beach
Download GPS track: from Wikiloc

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              This walk connects Promiri to the beach of Katigiorgis, which also serves as a port for a sea connection to the island of Skiathos, which is no more than 20 minutes away (boat trip to Koukounaries). Other walks in the area include Promiri to PlataniasLafkos to PromiriKatigiorgis to Vromoneri beach and Katigiorgis-Promiri-Rodia circular. During the summer season, several restaurants and cafes operate at the beach. A practical way to return back to Promiri, is to take the bus passing from Katigiorgis at 15.15' daily.
           Starting from the gas station at the entrance of Promiri, we walk on the main road of the village, which is paved with flat stones. We pass by the square and then just above the main church of Koimisis Theotokou (Dormition of Our Lady), built in 1760. The church celebrates on August 15th.
Koimisis Theotokou (Dormition of Theotokos) church at Promiri
           After the church,  the road becomes paved with cement, then asphalt and continues uphill to the left, while we continue downhill on a narrow earth road. A path on the right leads in 30 m. to  the old drinking water fountain Sardeli. When we passed at the end of June, only a few drops of water were coming out of the fountainhead.
Sardeli fountain
         We walk on a downhill earth road, which incorporates sections of kalderimi. On our right is a large ravine (Gerogianni stream) We ignore junctions with uphill roads leading to orchards.
The old path has become an earth road
          Eventually, we come down near the streambed. As the earth road turns right to cross the streambed, we leave it and walk straight ahead on a path. Shortly, the path crosses the streambed and passes on the right bank.
           After a little while, we cross again to the left bank and walk on the edge of an olive grove. At the other end of the grove there is an earth road that crosses the streambed. We find the continuity of the path on the right bank. In the first few meters we walk through bramble, but after that the path is clear and shady. In case ths bramble is overgrown blocking the path, we can walk into the streambed, which is usually dry. We come to cross the streambed one more time, passing again to the left bank. Eventually the path opens to the asphalt road next to a cottage`s fence on our left. On the other side of the road lies a metal bridge. Here we are at the entrance of the settlement of Liri.
Crossing the streambed
           We walk on the asphalt through the settlement. After exiting Liri, at the point where a metal cabin at a bus stop is on the left side of the road, we turn right on an earth road. After about thirty meters, watching down on our left, we find an earth path which shortly becomes a kalderimi, then earth path again. Further on, we join an uphill earth road. Reaching the ridge, we continue straight ahead into an olive grove. A cottage is on our left below.
Going through olive grove
          Watching for the signs, we find the continuity of the path, descending gently in a straight line to the south. After crossing a small stream, we continue in the same direction uphill through an olive grove. Further on, the path goes through a batch of pine trees. Reaching the ridge, we walk downhill in the same direction through another olive grove. A kiosk is on our left. We cross another tiny stream  and continue on earth road, following the signs.
          Finally, we come to cross an asphalt road and walk now on a cement paved track, which opens to the main road of Katigiorgis. Our walk ends after fifty meters at the beach, next to the chapel of Agios Georgios (St. George).
Katigiorgis beach
PS. Many thanks to George Laskos from Liri, who helped us find and clean the path.

Tuesday, June 4, 2019


Distance: 8,3 km (north route) or 9,5 km (south route)
Time: 3--3,5 hours
Altitude: from 390 m. (Milies square) to 340 m. (Propan square)
Total elevation gain: 318 m.  Total elevation loss: 393 m. (south route)
Total elevation gain: 250 m  Total elevation loss: 329 m. (north route)
Signed with red paint marks and metal signs
Drinking water on walk: no
Start: Milies square  End: Propan square
Download GPS track: south route   north route

Powered by Wikiloc   SOUTH ROUTE

Powered by Wikiloc    NORTH ROUTE
         Propan used to be the very last Pelion village to remain without a connection to the walking route network. This is no longer the case, as in spring 2019 the kalderimi to Choreftra junction and, ultimately, to Milies was traced and reopened by volunteers after many years of neglect. A connection to Lambinou is on the way. The kalderimi  from the square to Kalamaki beach also remains viable. At the square the cafe-restaurant is open all year round, along with a couple of  guesthouses.
        A few words about the village name: In 1954, state officials decided to rename it "Kalamaki" after its homonymous beach at the Aegean sea, because the old name Propan (which is of unknown origin, probably non-Greek) was considered undesirable. However, in 2014 at local people`s request, the original name was officially reinstated. All the road signs and most of the maps however, are slow to change.
Οld house at Propan
             There are two ways to get from Milies to Choreftra junction and from there to Propan. The north route, which is a little shorter, starts from Milies square and follows initially the kalderimi towards Tsagarada. After about 40 min. walk, we come to a kalderimi junction and follow  the right branch on even ground, rather than the uphill left branch which goes to Tsagarada. Eventually we join an earth road and follow it downhill to the asphalt main road. After 20 meters on the asphalt, we find a downhill path which gets to an abandoned orchard and then walk on an abandoned earth road parallel to the asphalt. This gets us to Horeftra road junction. From here, the last section of the walk is the same as described in the south route below, and we arrive at the square of Propan in a little less than 3 hours total time.
              The other (southerly) way, which is described below, initially follows the route Milies to Neochori. Setting off from the square in Milies, we follow the asphalt road downhill. Ina  hundred metres, at a right hand bend in the road, we branch off to the left onto a wide paved track that goes gently uphill (the sign indicates to ''Neochori'' -''Agios Nikolaos''). Reaching a crossroads, we take the  track to the right. Further on, this becomes a kalderimi, then a downhill cement road and we cross the main asphalt next to the last house of the village.   We now walk on beautiful old kalderimi, which continues opposite, descending to a ravine with lush vegetation.
         Further down, at a left bend of the kalderimi, there is a branch to the right that used to serve people using the train station. For information, this branch leads to the main road Milies-Volos at a sharp bend, 200 metres below the junction to the train station.    
      The kalderimi we are following, which is  clear and in good condition, crosses the stream bed (Kakorema) and climbs up the opposite side with an olive grove to its right. When we reach the top of the ridge we meet an earth road. We cross the road and, descending gently, the kalderimi opens to another road. This leads us after a hundred metres down to the old church of Agios Nikolaos, a remnant of the monastery that used to operate here. It`s a good place to have a stop. Unfortunately, we don`t have the opportunity to admire the notable frescos inside the church, as its doors remain locked. 
Agios Nikolaos chapel

               Retracing our steps back, we easily find the continuity of the kalderimi on the other side of the road and follow it to the east. We cross two small stream beds, pass by an old hut and eventually the kalderimi ends, where it comes out onto an earth road, along which we walk uphill. The wider  area  is called Pavlakia.
           Further up, we come to join the wide earth road that comes from the settlement of Stavrodromi. We follow this road uphill, ignoring any junctions left and right. The road brings us to Choreftra junction after 2,5 kilometers. 
Path in arbutus forest
               From here, an easy and beautiful 1-hour downhill walk remains to Propan. So we cross the asphalt and walk initially uphill on a narrow earth road. After a few meters (attention left!) we spot the path entrance on the left, entering an arbutus forest. On our way downhill  there are sections of kalderimi. We come to cross the stream of "Arkouda" (''Bear") and continue on the other bank on an earth track, passing from an orchard with large chestnut trees on our right.
        After about one kilometer on the earth road, as it goes uphill to meet the asphalt road that runs above us, we leave it to the right, watching for the red marks and the signs.  We now walk on a wide earth track, which later becomes a   descending kalderimi. Further on, we walk on the upper limit of a couple of orchards. As we go past a small landslide, the earth path becomes kalderimi again. 
Propan, view to the Aegean sea

         Finally we come down to the chapel of Agios Ioannis and walk now on road. We go straight past a junction with an asphalt road to the right going down towards Kalamaki beach and at the next junction we leave the asphalt and take the stone-paved track to the right, which leads to the square in five minutes.  
Propan square