Makrirachi-Anilio

View of Makrirachi

Distance: 2,5 km
Time: 1 hour'
Altitude: from 300 m. (Makrirachi) to 160 m. (minimum) to 370 m. (Anilio)
Total elevation gain: 201 m.  Total elevation loss: 130 m.
Signed with red paint dots and round yellow signs
Drinking water on walk: no
Download GPS track (gpx): from Wikiloc

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         WARNING Update 2019: There is a report that the path is closed by overgrown vegetation at the Anilio side.
        Many people from both villages remember the wooden bridge down at the stream in normal operation until the 1970`s. When Nikos Haratsis walked this route in 1994, only some stones of the south base remained. Nowadays there is absolutely no trace of the old bridge. Crossing the stream on our own can be difficult in the spring when the snow melts or following heavy rain, so it should be avoided under these circumstances, until a new bridge is built some day. In summer and autumn, when the flow of water is reduced, crossing the stream is relatively easy.

       UPDATE November 2019: The path is reported to be closed by vegetation on the Anilio side.
       Starting from the square of Makrirachi, we descend on the kalderimi (cobblestone track) next to the restaurant. This soon becomes a cement track with a central cobblestone lane. As this track opens out to a small parking area, we find the continuity of the original old kalderimi looking down on the right (attention to the red dots!).

Οn the way down from Makrirachi, view to Anilio

          The kalderimi soon is covered with concretre and we reach a junction, where we turn left on the asphalt. In the next junction we turn right downhill on the concrete track. We do the same at the next junction and finally the concrete track ends at an apple orchard.

The apple orchard

We can make out the kalderimi as it continues to descend on the right side of the orchard, its stones covered with soil. In a few meters there is a section blocked by vegetation and we have to follow its course stepping down the low stone wall. After that, the kalderimi ends and continues as an earth path leading down to the streambed.

At the streambed

        We walk another fifteen meters just next to the stream in the direction of the sea and then find a way to cross it to the other side, where the continuity of  the kalderimi is easily seen. Its stones are covered by fallen leaves, ivy and soil. Water emerges from the earth and runs on the surface for a short distance, producing mud and making our life difficult.

         Climbing into chestnut forest, we come to join an earth road and follow it uphill. This passes in front of the old chapel of Panagia (Virgin Mary), nicely renovated. An inscription above the door informs that it was built in 1745. Next to the chapel is the old cemetery, surrounded by cypress trees.

Panagia chapel of Anilio

       Further up, the road becomes concrete paved and we have a junction, where we turn right, heading for the square. If we intend to continue to Plaka beach, it is better to take the other cement road straight ahead, which joins the asphalt near the new cemetery, from where the kalderimi to Plaka starts. From Anilio, one can either walk down to Plaka beach, or up to Hania (see the walk Hania-Anilio-Agios Ioannis). If, on the other hand, we are walking from Anilio to Makrirachi, we can continue uphill to Hania (two routes, the Path of the Waterfalls and the main kalderimi via Profitis Elias) or walk the asphalt down to Agii Saranda and Horefto.

View to the sea above Panagia (notice the cypress trees)

Hania-Anilio-Ai Giannis (Agios Ioannis)

Plaka beach

Distance; 12,1 km
Duration; 4-4,5 h (walking time 3,5 h)
Altitude: from 1170 m. (Hania) to sea level
Signed with: red paint marks, a few signs
Drinking water on walk: Anilio
Download GPS track:   from Everytrail    from Wikiloc

          This walk climbs down from the ski centre at Hania to the village of Anilio and finally to the excellent beach of Plaka, following the old mule track that was recently explored and cleared. In Ai Giannis we will find hotels and restaurants open all year round, as well as in Anilio (during the summer season only).  We can return from Ai  Giannis to Hania and Volos taking the afternoon bus at 16.45' (www.ktelvolou.gr).

          We take the asphalt going to the ski centre and at the second parking turn left on the road to Kissos.  The recorded track starts from the base of ski lifts. From the edge of the plateau, a little below the asphalt, we enter the path (signed to ''Kissos'') which is a bit rough in the beginning, due to dumped soil, but afterwards it is ok and even has a small bit of kalderimi. We come out to the asphalt road again and after 100 metres, there is an earth road that goes off to the left with a sign to ''Anilio'' and we follow this. After about one kilometer there is a section of path to the right (watch out for the red paint marks), which eventually comes out to the road again. After another 100 m., we take a secondary track to the right and immediately find the path watching to the left. It descends into dense beech forest and after a while opens out to the road again at a junction. Here we take the left narrower branch heading northeast. Reaching a small plateau on the right called ''Stalos'' (attention to the marks), we leave the road and find the path at the other end of the plateau, going steadily northeast into the forest. On our way we meet a small section of kalderimi.

Walking into the beech forest

         After a while, as we reach the location called ''Psila Kotronia" (High Rocks) at 950 m. of altitude, our path starts to descend steadily. We have to keep watching for the red marks, as sections of path alternate with sections of earth road. Lower down, walking on road, there is a junction and we go right. From certain points we enjoy great views to Makrirachi village on the opposite slope and to the infinite blue of the Aegean sea.

View to Makrirachi village

      Reaching a cottage building on the left (attention), we leave the main road and descend down the track into the apple grove, to  find the kalderimi at the lower side of the grove heading east into chestnut forest. This section ends at a small stream, where we face a deadend, as there is no trace of path whatsoever on the other side, only wild overgrown vegetation. To overcome this problem, just a few metres before the deadend we follow the red marks to the right making a detour and walk on a dirt track first, then on the concrete road downhill.
     We keep on the road, avoiding another difficult section of the original path and eventually come down to the main asphalt, on which we walk to the right. Shortly after the petrol station, watching on the left side, we notice the wide and clear kalderimi that leads to the square of Anilio with the main church of Agios Athanasios (built in 1728). About three hours have passed since starting from the base of lifts.

Anilio village square and Agios Athanasios church

       Under the square goes a narrow asphalt road and we continue on this through the village heading northeast to the sea. Just after the junction with an uphill asphalt road, we leave the main road and take a narrow cement road on the right, leading to the cemetery. We continue on a dirt track downhill and immediately find the kalderimi on the left, descending nicely into the shady forest. It crosses a road a couple of times and we easily find  the continuity on the other side or a little lower, keeping an eye for the red marks.

The kalderimi to Plaka

        Eventually, it joins the asphalt and we walk on this downhill. It takes a left turn and, just after the fence of Eden Hotel, at the end of the asphalt there is a sign (in Greek). The earth road ahead goes to Panagia Faneromeni chapel (ΠΑΝΑΓΙΑ ΦΑΝΕΡΩΜΕΝΗ), above which a path continues towards Banikas beach. We don`t take this road, but instead turn right downhill towards Plaka (ΠΛΑΚΑ). Some sections of the old kalderimi have survived and others have been rebuilt, but unfortunately not to the best standard (the flat stones that were used can be slippery when wet-attention). We walk next to a deserted kiosk and finally come down to the excellent sandy beach Plaka, which, like Banikas, belong to the village of Anilio and was used as a port in the old days, hence the construction of kalderimi to help mules carrying loads. This used to be a quiet, remote place a few decades ago (thankfully remains inaccessible by cars), but nowadays the bar-restaurant of Eden hotel makes it more lively in the summer, by virtue of the loud dance music played all day long (not heard at the end of the beach, thank God).

Plaka beach (late September)

       We continue along the beach to the south, pass over the rocks at the end and arrive finally to the tourist seaside settlement of Ai Giannis.