Thursday, May 28, 2015

Milies-Panagiotiko dam-Boufa

The kalderimi to Pavlakia
Distance: 12,8 km
Time: 5,5 h (with stops)
Altitude: from 380 m. (Milies) to 0 m. (Boufa)
Total ascent: 264 m.  Total descent: 642 m.
Signed with red paint marks and various signs
Drinking water on walk: no
Start: Milies square   End: Boufa (Koropi) beach
Download GPS track:   from Wikiloc

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       This route begins from Milies on a beautiful kalderimi and continues in the direction of Neochori until we reach the Panagiotiko dam. Then we follow the course of Platanorema stream, until the beach of Boufa (Koropi). There we can have a swim and then return to our starting point via the Boufa-Milies route thus completing the circle, or we can take the bus to Volos from the main asphalt road (timetables at www.ktelvolou.gr). 


        The first part of the walk is the same as in the route Milies-Neochori. Setting off from the square in Milies, we follow the asphalt road downhill towards Volos. Eighty metres further down at a right hand bend in the road, just past a parking area down to our right, we branch off to the left onto a wide paved road that goes gently uphill. Reaching a crossroads, we take the paved road to the right and soon start to descend. This becomes a cement road and it comes out onto the asphalt road to Tsagarada at the last house of Milies, at a point where there is a mirror at a left hand bend in the road.
Leaving Milies
              We descend on a beautiful kalderimi, which continues opposite, towards a stream bed with lush vegetation. Further down, at a bend in the kalderimi to the left, there is a branch to our right that used to serve people using the train station. For information, this branch leads to the main road to Milies at a sharp bend, 100 metres below the road junction that leads to the train station. 
Kalderimi near Agios Nikolaos
 Τhe kalderimi we are following, clear and in good condition, crosses the stream bed (Kakorema) and climbs up the opposite side with an olive grove to its right. When we reach the top of the ridge we meet an earth road. We cross this diagonally and follow the kalderimi towards Neochori, descending gently. Eventually we find another road which leads us a hundred metres further down to the old church of Agios Nikolaos, a remnant of the monastery that used to exist here. Here is a good place to have a stop. Unfortunately, we are not able to admire the notable frescos inside the church, as its doors remain locked.
Agios Nikolaos church

Retracing our steps back, we easily find the continuity of the kalderimi on the other side of the road and follow it to the east. We cross two small stream beds, pass by an old hut and eventually the kalderimi ends, where it comes out onto an earth road, along which we walk uphill. The wider  area  is called Pavlakia
Further up, we come out onto the earth road that comes from the settlement Stavrodromi. We go left (eastwards) and after a hundred metres we take the narrow earth road to the right (southeast), which brings us out at a flat area with a threshing floor to the left and a row of cypress trees to the right.
Reaching the plateau with the threshing floor and cypresses
 The path to Neochori, which we follow, goes off to the left after the threshing floor (there is a signpost), initially going downhill in an easterly direction, passes two small stream beds and comes out onto an earth road. Walking down on that  road, we will get to the dam (at the signed road junction below we don`t go left to Neochori, but take the unsigned right branch). 
The ''Panagiotiko'' dam
The dam is providing water to South Pelion from the small artificial lake that was formed, but at the cost of destroying the old stone arched bridge that existed here (the bridge of Malamaki), of which only photographs are left now. You can see them in the photo book ''ΠΕΤΡΙΝΑ ΤΟΞΩΤΑ ΓΕΦΥΡΙΑ ΣΤΟ ΠΗΛΙΟ'' (“Stone arched bridges in Pelion” by Nikos Haratsis, in Greek).
The bridge of Malamakis, now gone forever (photo by Nikos Haratsis)

After the dam, we continue walking down the road, descending parallel to the stream, which is called Platanorema.
After about a kilometer, we come to a right hand bend in the road crossing a small stream. Here a path branches to the left towards Zervochia-Niaou (Afetes)-Afissos and to the right towards Milies. At  that junction we go right downhill.  The path descends, becomes a kalderimi for a short distance, and comes down to the streambed. We don`t cross it, but walk on the stones on left bank near to the water (there is no path on that section). Soon we find a path with an old water tube and follow it. The tube used to bring water to an old watermill, which is now renovated. We can visit the watermill taking the second path junction to the right. 
Platanorema stream near the watermill
Returning back to the path, this soon opens to an earth road, which we follow.  In a short while, we reach a point, marked with red paint, where we can easily cross to the right bank of the stream. Walking on the earth road on the right bank, this opens to the main asphalt next to a bus stop. 
Olive grove near Boufa (in spring)
 We cross the asphalt and continue straight ahead on earth road to get finally to the beach of Boufa (officially Koropi). 


Tuesday, May 12, 2015

Kala Nera-Milies (circular)

Taking pictures at the Belegrinos waterfall
Distance: 11,8 km
Duration: 4,5 hours (walking time 4 hours)
Altitude: from 0 m. (Kala Nera) to 385 m. (Milies square)
Total ascent/descent: 405 m.
Signing: red paint marks, metal signs
Drinking water on walk: Milies
Download GPS track:  from Everytrail   from Wikiloc


         In this circular walk, starting from the seaside at Kala Nera, we climb up to the square of Milies, following the route of the main kalderimi. Then, we return on a more easterly kalderimi, which follows the course of the Miliotiko stream. If we walk in the springtime, the stream will have plenty of running water and the olive groves on our way will be blossoming with wild flowers. Milies and Kala Nera are tourist destinations and have many tavernas, cafes and hotels open all year round. Bus timetables can be found at www.ktelvolou.gr
          We set off from the beach at Kala Nera, where there is a kiosk and a sign indicating bus turn, and walk on the asphalt road away from the sea. We soon reach the main asphalt road, where we turn right (to the east) and walk for a hundred meters, after which we find a road to the left with a sign to “Argyreika” (''Αργυραίικα''). We take this turning, at which there are a few cypress trees. After a few meters, there is another crossing, at which we head right onto a narrow cement road that runs parallel to the asphalt road. This takes us to the Kala Nera cemetery, after which we continue on an earth road. After a hundred meters, this road bears left into an olive grove. After a few meters (keep your eyes open here!), we bear right into the olive grove and immediately find the kalderimi, which is in good condition and gently climbs up to the ridge above.
View to Milies
           Further on, we bear right onto an earth road, which we follow for a hundred metres and then find the continuation of the kalderimi on our left. We walk between olive trees, seeing Milies nicely in front of us. On our right is the Miliotiko stream and we begin to make out the sound of the running water. We cross the river on a cement bridge and zigzag up the hill on a wonderful kalderimi, meeting the first houses of the village in the area known as Giftakeika.
Beautiful kalderimi at Giftakeika
A little further up we come out onto the asphalt road, which to the left leads to the train station. We cross this and climb with the church of Ag. Georgios to our right. Climbing continuously, we pass a small bridge and further up by the house of Daniel Filippidis, one of the three teachers at the Milies higher school in 19th century. We eventually reach the village square, with its remarkable main church, worthy of a visit inside.  It is a place where we will definitely want to stop!
Milies square
We now begin our return to Kala Nera. From Milies square, we walk down the main kalderimi that goes towards the train station and after eighty metres, when we reach the house of Daniel Filippidis, we turn left  to ''ΦΙΛΙΠΠΙΔΗ'' Street (rather a kalderimi). We continue straight ahead downhill on the kalderimi, ignoring any turnings uphill or to the right, and soon reach the nice small church of Agios Konstantinos and Eleni.
Agios Konstantinos and Eleni church
After the church, we come out onto the asphalt road to the train station, we cross this at an angle and continue on a paved track-kalderimi. Close by on our left is the asphalt road between Volos and Milies.
A little further down we cross another narrow road that leads to the village graveyard. On our left it a group of mansions. The kalderimi continues downhill through a virtual tunnel of vegetation. Further down (watch out for this) near the asphalt road it appears to turn right and, passing by the chapel of John the Baptist a little down below, finally comes out onto the road. Exactly at this right hand turn, our kalderimi continues straight ahead. Until December 2015 this section was completely closed for thirty metres by vegetation but now it is cleaned and open.
Kalderimi through a tunnel of vegetation
             On our way we cross  the asphalt road twice at an angle to find the calderimi again on the other side.  A little further down we meet another kalderimi junction. One branch turns left leading to the stone bridge of Tsipokalamos and ultimately Boufa (Koropi). The narrow path on the right goes to the nearby small chapel of the Birth of the Virgin Mary, chocked by lush vegetation. We continue straight ahead down the wide kalderimi and descend to the riverbed of the Miliotiko gorge.
Crossing the Miliotiko riverbed
       We pass the river bed on stepping stones. Once on the opposite bank, the kalderimi-path continues parallel to the river between olive trees. After a little while a path leads us down to the river bed, since a landslide has destroyed the kalderimi here, and we walk along this for fifty metres until we find the continuity of the path-kalderimi, which keeps going parallel to the river bed.
Walking parallel to the riverbed

Finally, we come out onto an earth road, which we continue to follow along the right hand river bank until we reach the main asphalt road. We cross this and continue straight ahead on the earth road next to the river, until we reach the sea next to the army summer camp (KAAY). Walking along the seaside road to the right, we soon return to the starting point  of our walk.
Kala Nera

Tuesday, March 10, 2015

Milies-Neochori

The kalderimi to Pavlakia
Distance: 11,4 km
Duration: 4 hours with stops (walking time 3,5 hours)
Altitude: from 380 m. (Milies) to 460 m. (Neochori)
Total ascent: 509 m.  Total descent: 428 m.
Signed with: red paint marks,  yellow signs
Drinking water on walk: no
Download GPS track:  from Everytrail    from Wikiloc

       The first half of this route is a beautiful kalderimi, while the second half uses earth roads and sections of path. We pass by two old monasteries, Agios Nikolaos and Panagia Tourkogianni, from both of which only the main church of the monastery remains today. We also walk near the artificial lake at Platanorema formed by the Panagiotiko dam. In Neochori, as in Milies, there are taverns open all year round. From Neochori, one can continue walking to Siki or to Niaou (Afetes) and Afissos. Bus timetables can be found at www.ktelvolou.gr


       The first section of the walk is the same as that for the Milies-Panayiotiko dam-Boufa route. Setting off from the square in Milies, we follow the asphalt road downhill. A hundred metres further down, at a right hand bend in the road, we branch off to the left onto a wide paved track that goes gently uphill. Reaching a crossroads, we take the  track to the right. Further on, this becomes a kalderimi, then a downhill cement road and we cross the main asphalt next to the last house of the village.            
A stream at Pavlakia
              We now walk on beautiful old kalderimi, which continues opposite, descending to a ravine with lush vegetation. Further down, at a bend in the kalderimi to the left, there is a branch to our right that used to serve people using the train station. For information, this branch leads to the main road Milies-Volos at a sharp bend, 200 metres below the junction that leads to the train station. 
Agios Nikolaos church at Pavlakia

            The kalderimi we are following, which is kept clear and in good condition, crosses the stream bed (Kakorema) and climbs up the opposite side with an olive grove to its right. When we reach the top of the ridge we meet an earth road. Here is a kalderimi crossing and we can get to Agios Nikolaos by both ways. We prefer to cross the road and, descending gently, the kalderimi opens to another road. This leads us after a hundred metres down to the old church of Agios Nikolaos, a remnant of the monastery that used to exist here. Here is a good place to have a stop. Unfortunately, we are not able to admire the notable frescos inside the church, as its doors remain locked. 
Fresco at Agios Nikolaos

Interior view of the narthex of Agios Nikolaos church
 

                      Retracing our steps back, we easily find the continuity of the kalderimi on the other side of the road and follow it to the east. We cross two small stream beds, pass by an old hut and eventually the kalderimi ends, where it comes out onto an earth road, along which we walk uphill. The wider  area  is called Pavlakia.
Kalderimi at Pavlakia
           Further up, we come out onto the earth road that comes from the settlement of Stavrodromi. We turn to the left (east) and then after a hundred metres at a fork we go to the right (southeast) onto a narrow earth road that brings us out at a flat area with a threshing floor and a row of cypress trees to the right. Just after the threshing floor, we turn left and find a path that descends heading east. We cross a small stream bed, pass a derelict hut on our right and then we take the right hand path at a fork. This area was burnt in a recent fire, but is already turning green again. We cross another stream bed and then meet an earth road, which we follow downhill. Below us we see the Panayiotiko dam with the lake that has been formed in the valley of Platanorema - a beautiful and peaceful picture.
The lake at Panayiotiko dam

        A little further down there is a crossroads, where we turn left and walk above the lake to the east. After walking for about two kilometers (half an hour) on the road, at a point where there is a grove to our left, we come to a junction. The downhill road to the right brings us to the old monastery of Panagia Tourkogianni. The only part that remains of this is the humble renovated main church. The old icon of Panagia (Virgin Mary) is kept at Neochori and is brought here only during the feast on the church’s saint day on the 15th of August.
Panagia Tourkogianni church


                                     We continue on the road, which goes down towards a stream. In the past, two rows of cypress trees lined the path, but now they have been lost in a fire. We reach a concrete building of the water system, where we turn left into dense vegetation, noticing the red arrow on the electricity meter pole (attention-the signposts we put there are sadly missing because someone has removed them). 
Turn left in vegetation, noticing the red arrow

          We walk parallel to the stream for a short distance, after which we cross it and climb up the other bank on a path in a southeasterly direction. This path was cleared and signed in January 2015 by volunteers from the Friends of the Kalderimi of South Pelion and Volos Alpine Club
.
Climbing on the path after crossing the stream

             Eventually, we come out at an angle onto an earth road, which we follow and soon see Neochori in front of us. We come out to the main asphalt road, pass over the bridge entering the village and then take an uphill paved track, following the red paint marks, which finally becomes a kalderimi opening to the square, next to the old drinking water fountain.      
The square of  Neochori

 


Tuesday, February 24, 2015

Volos-Anemoutsa-Agria

View to Agria
Distance: 11,6 km
Duration: 3,5 hours (walking time 3.10')
Altitude: from 20 m (start) to 394 m. (max) to 0 m. (finish)
Total ascent: 503 m. Total descent: 506 m.
Signed with red paint marks
Drinking water on walk: no
Download GPS track: from Everytrail   from Wikiloc


           
           This is a walk mainly on earth road with sections of path, passing from some interesting spots. Starting from Volos football stadium just above the swimming center (we can go there by taxi or city bus nr.3), we walk on a path that climbs on the slope of the adjacent hill (named Goritsa) through pinewood. On our right are the headquarters of the local Scouting organisation. We cross the asphalt twice and later join it at an angle. The road leads to the top of the hill and the chapel of Panagia. The view over the top is excellent. All around this area lay the ruins of an ancient city, built at 4th century BC, that was abandoned a few decades later and even its name still remains unknown (see Pelion mythology-history).
View over Volos from the top of  the hill
        From the east side of the church we take a downhill path, seeing the cement factory down below. The path opens to an earth road and we walk on that to the northeast, passing under remains of the ancient city`s fortification. We come to a locked door and pass through an opening. Further on, the road turns right but we continue straight ahead on a path which soon opens to another earth road. Our course runs just above the cement factory`s old quarry. The road ends, we continue on a path through a grove and then on a road next to a fence. We come to a junction and take the concrete road on the right, going uphill. At the following junction we go straight ahead.
The cement factory
          From a certain point we enjoy panoramic view of the cement factory from above. The road continues unpaved, incorporating small sections of kalderimi. We pass by a watering trough with a ruined cistern and eventually come to a road junction with a large sign in Greek. The downhill road to the right leads to Agria and if we take that, our walk will be shorter by twenty minutes. We preferred to head straight on towards the small settlement of Anemoutsa. After a little while, we come to a small drinking water fountain without water. On the right is the chapel of  Taksiarches. From there, we take a downhill path with some sections of kalderimi, following the red marks. This opens to the forementioned earth road going down towards Agria. After 200 m. on the road, we come to a cypress tree and a shrine (attention). Here we turn right into the olive grove, cross a stream and immediately come to the old deserted monastery of Taksiarches. The church is in good condition after renovation, but the other buildings have sadly collapsed.
Τhe old monastery at Anemoutsa

       Always following the frequent red marks, we continue on a path on the right side of the stream, going towards the sea in front of us. Certain spots  may be unpleasant to people with fear of heights, but not really difficult.
On the narrow trail towards the sea
          We cross an olive grove, pass on the left side of the stream and join the road to Agria, which is paved with concrete. At the junction where the paved road turns left, we continue to the right on a narrow earth track. Following the course of the stream on our right side, we pass by the drinking water fountain of ''Yiannis'' (without water too), then a school on our left side. Walking on Porfirogeni (ΠΟΡΦΥΡΟΓΕΝΗ) str., we finally end up to the seafront of Agria with its plethora of tavernas and cafes. We can return to Volos by city bus nr. 5 or taxi.

Thursday, February 19, 2015

Niaou (Afetes)-Neochori

Approaching Neochori
Distance: 6,1 km
Duration: 2 hours (walking time 1.45')
Altitude: from 235 m. (Niaou square) to 470 m. (Neochori square)
Total ascent: 281 m.  Total descent: 52 m.
Signed with round yellow signs and red paint marks
Drinking water on walk: no
Start: Niaou (Afetes) square
Finish: Neochori square
Download GPS track: from Wikiloc


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         In this walk, we follow the course of the old kalderimi, a significant part of which still exists. Its best part is near Neochori, at the old stone bridge. We also enjoy nice views over the sea near the village of Niaou. Only problem is, we have to walk on the main asphalt for half a kilometer. Neochori is also connected with hiking routes to Milies and Siki, and Niaou (Afetes) to Afissos (see respective walks). At the square of Neochori there is a restaurant open all year round, at Niaou during the summer season and weekends in winter. See bus timetables at www.ktelvolou.gr
        Niaou is a slavic toponym meaning ''pen'', and has been the original name of the village from its beginning in the Middle Ages until 1955, when it was unwisely decided to rename it ''Afetai'', after the ancient seaside settlement which, however, is unrelated to that area (it is considered to be situated at modern-day Platanias). The original name is still in use by the locals and should, in my view, be reinstated.
Niaou (Afetes)
          Starting from the square and the main church of Timiou Prodromou (St. John the Baptist), we climb on kalderimi for a few meters and then turn right on the cement road going uphill on an easterly direction. After crossing a stream and passing by a drinking water fountain, we notice the sign to the left and start climbing on a wide earth path which becomes kalderimi and then earth path again. It opens to a narrow asphalt road, which we follow to the right for thirty meters to find the continuity. We climb now on kalderimi on the slope, having a mansion on our left. This section was built in the early 50`s and remains in good condition.
Kalderimi climbing on the slope
        Higher up, we cross the stream to the left and walk on earth road, which opens to the main asphalt. We walk on this for twenty meters to the right and then take an earth track, parallel to the asphalt on its right side, going gently downhill to the east. There is a mansion at a distance of 50 meters to the right. On our way, we can make out bits of the old cobblestone.
        After a while, we cross the asphalt at an angle and continue on the other side. In front of us, we can see the road signs of the main asphalt junction (Delta) to Argalasti and we head on to that. Eventually, we join the asphalt and walk on this for 50 metres. Reaching the junction, we take the old road which runs parallel to the main asphalt on the left. If we look carefully, we will notice some traces of the old kalderimi at some point.
       The old road eventually joins again the main asphalt, which  has covered the kalderimi for more than a kilometer. We will avoid a significant section of asphalt, by taking after 20 meters the narrow earth road on the right, which opens out to the main road again at Agrigiannis winery after about 700 m. After the winery, we have to walk about 500 meters on the asphalt (no way to avoid that) and then we leave it to the right, taking a narrow earth road (at the junction there is a sign with a picture of a stone bridge).
Kalderimi in pinewood
         After twenty meters we leave the road to the left and walk downhill on a path which soon becomes a kalderimi crossing pinewood. We soon come to cross a stream over an old arched stone bridge. According to the inscription on the eastern keystone, it was built in 23 April 1895 on donation by Konstantinos Topalis, an eminent lawyer and politician from Volos.
The bridge of Topalis near Neochori
     Leaving the old bridge in quiet, we climb on kalderimi. Reaching the graveyard, it becomes concrete road. At the junction we go left and soon come to a parking lot. Climbing the stairs we finally arrive at the square of Neochori.
The square of Neochori

Monday, February 9, 2015

Platanias-Agios Spiridon monastery (circular)

Agios Spiridon monastery
Distance: 10,1 km
Duration: 3,5 hours with stops
Altitude: from 0 m. to 363 m.
Total ascent/descent: 405 m.
Signed with round yellow signs and red paint marks
Drinking water on walk: Agios Nikolaos chapel
Download GPS track:  from Wikiloc


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         In this circular walk, we climb from the tourist beach of Platanias following initially the main (eastern) route to Lafkos. Then take the earth road to the monastery of Agios Spiridon, and then return back through a connection to the route Promiri-Platanias.
         Starting from the seaside, initially we walk into the wide streambed. At the corner of a basketball pitch, we take the earth road on the left and start going uphill on a westerly direction, next to a small stream that lies on our left side. Futher up at a junction we go right and walk between olive groves on a northerly direction.  Just after a stone hut which is on our left side, noticing the signpost we leave the road to the right, crossing an olive grove. Αt the other end of the grove we enter the path and we soon cross the stream of Poros. This word means ''pass'' in Greek, but also ''running water'' in Slavic (poroj), so it is unclear where it comes from, as both meanings are valid in this case.
Agios Nikolaos chapel
          On the other bank we walk uphill on kalderimi, which eventually becomes an earth road leading to the quiet small chapel of Agios Nikolaos, a suitable place for a stop. Further up, the road takes a sharp left bend next to a cottage. The path originally goes straight ahead, but is unclear and we prefer to follow the road. We go past a first junction and at the following one we find  the path between the two roads in the middle. Further up, it opens to an earth road, which we follow to the left for 100 m. to find again the continuity of the path, watching out for the red paint marks on our right. Climbing up, we go past a cottage and a concrete water tank and join the asphalt road coming from Mikro beach. Walking 30 meters on the asphalt, we go past a narrow earth track on the right and then reach a junction with a wide earth road, which we follow for 100 meters and then find the path on the right, following the course of an overgrown gully.
         This leads us to the monastery of Agios Spiridon. Related to Promiri, it was destroyed by the Turks during the Greek revolution in 1823, was rebuilt in 1834 and currently functions as a nunnery having three nuns. It is open 8-12 in the morning and from 16.00 until sunset, every day except Friday.
Agios Spiridon monastery
       Leaving the monastery, we leave the main road and take the narrow earth track on the right going downhill. At the outside of the left turn we find the path, descending to an overgrown ravine with running water. We cross the stream and ascend on the other bank heading east. After a little while the path becomes an earth road. We pass under a cottage and then reach a road junction, where we go downhill to the right, following the small round signs. At the second junction we go right again and at the third one we go to the left. Eventually, we join the main kalderimi coming from Promiri and walk on this downhill. It goes out for a little while on an earth road and again continues to the left.
The main kalderimi to Platanias

       The cobblestone path opens at a concrete tank below, to the point where two streams come together. We continue on an uphill road, having on the right the fence of a cottage. At the upper corner of the fence we find the kalderimi, that descends for a few meters and then finally stops and becomes a footpath next to a low stone wall (pezoula). Then we pass on the right side of the stream and continue among olive trees. Here the trail is not so obvious, but we generally follow the course of the stream to the sea in a southerly direction, assisted by signs and red marks. Further on, we pass to the left side of the stream and walk on an earth road.
Walking into the streambed

     Eventually, we reach a point  just next to the stream, where the earth road turns left uphill to meet the asphalt, next to a road sign ''Have a Nice Trip-Welcome to Platanias''(we don`t take that route). In front of us is a private property. At this point we enter into the streambed on the right, which is normally dry and fairly easy (and pleasant) to walk on, and follow it for about 700 m. until it opens to the beach of Platanias.
Platanias