Milies-Neochori

The kalderimi to Pavlakia

Distance: 11,4 km
Duration: 4 hours with stops (walking time 3,5 hours)
Altitude: from 380 m. (Milies) to 460 m. (Neochori)
Total ascent: 509 m.  Total descent: 428 m.
Signed with: red paint marks,  yellow signs
Drinking water on walk: no
Download GPS track:  from Everytrail    from Wikiloc

       The first half of this route is a beautiful kalderimi, while the second half uses earth roads and sections of path. We pass by two old monasteries, Agios Nikolaos and Panagia Tourkogianni, from both of which only the main church of the monastery remains today. We also walk near the artificial lake at Platanorema formed by the Panagiotiko dam. In Neochori, as in Milies, there are taverns open all year round. From Neochori, one can continue walking to Siki or to Niaou (Afetes) and Afissos. Bus timetables can be found at www.ktelvolou.gr

       The first section of the walk is the same as that for the Milies-Panayiotiko dam-Boufa route. Setting off from the square in Milies, we follow the asphalt road downhill. A hundred metres further down, at a right hand bend in the road, we branch off to the left onto a wide paved track that goes gently uphill. Reaching a crossroads, we take the  track to the right. Further on, this becomes a kalderimi, then a downhill cement road and we cross the main asphalt next to the last house of the village.            

A stream at Pavlakia

              We now walk on beautiful old kalderimi, which continues opposite, descending to a ravine with lush vegetation. Further down, at a bend in the kalderimi to the left, there is a branch to our right that used to serve people using the train station. For information, this branch leads to the main road Milies-Volos at a sharp bend, 200 metres below the junction that leads to the train station. 

Agios Nikolaos church at Pavlakia

            The kalderimi we are following, which is kept clear and in good condition, crosses the stream bed (Kakorema) and climbs up the opposite side with an olive grove to its right. When we reach the top of the ridge we meet an earth road. Here is a kalderimi crossing and we can get to Agios Nikolaos by both ways. We prefer to cross the road and, descending gently, the kalderimi opens to another road. This leads us after a hundred metres down to the old church of Agios Nikolaos, a remnant of the monastery that used to exist here. Here is a good place to have a stop. Unfortunately, we are not able to admire the notable frescos inside the church, as its doors remain locked. 

Fresco at Agios Nikolaos

Interior view of the narthex of Agios Nikolaos church

 

                      Retracing our steps back, we easily find the continuity of the kalderimi on the other side of the road and follow it to the east. We cross two small stream beds, pass by an old hut and eventually the kalderimi ends, where it comes out onto an earth road, along which we walk uphill. The wider  area  is called Pavlakia.

Kalderimi at Pavlakia

           Further up, we come out onto the earth road that comes from the settlement of Stavrodromi. We turn to the left (east) and then after a hundred metres at a fork we go to the right (southeast) onto a narrow earth road that brings us out at a flat area with a threshing floor and a row of cypress trees to the right. Just after the threshing floor, we turn left and find a path that descends heading east. We cross a small stream bed, pass a derelict hut on our right and then we take the right hand path at a fork. This area was burnt in a recent fire, but is already turning green again. We cross another stream bed and then meet an earth road, which we follow downhill. Below us we see the Panayiotiko dam with the lake that has been formed in the valley of Platanorema - a beautiful and peaceful picture.

The lake at Panayiotiko dam

        A little further down there is a crossroads, where we turn left and walk above the lake to the east. After walking for about two kilometers (half an hour) on the road, at a point where there is a grove to our left, we come to a junction. The downhill road to the right brings us to the old monastery of Panagia Tourkogianni. The only part that remains of this is the humble renovated main church. The old icon of Panagia (Virgin Mary) is kept at Neochori and is brought here only during the feast on the church’s saint day on the 15th of August.

Panagia Tourkogianni church

                                     We continue on the road, which goes down towards a stream. In the past, two rows of cypress trees lined the path, but now they have been lost in a fire. We reach a concrete building of the water system, where we turn left into dense vegetation, noticing the red arrow on the electricity meter pole (attention-the signposts we put there are sadly missing because someone has removed them). 

Turn left in vegetation, noticing the red arrow

          We walk parallel to the stream for a short distance, after which we cross it and climb up the other bank on a path in a southeasterly direction. This path was cleared and signed in January 2015 by volunteers from the Friends of the Kalderimi of South Pelion and Volos Alpine Club.

Climbing on the path after crossing the stream

             Eventually, we come out at an angle onto an earth road, which we follow and soon see Neochori in front of us. We come out to the main asphalt road, pass over the bridge entering the village and then take an uphill paved track, following the red paint marks, which finally becomes a kalderimi opening to the square, next to the old drinking water fountain.      

The square of  Neochori

 

Volos-Anemoutsa-Agria

View to Agria

Distance: 11,6 km
Duration: 3,5 hours (walking time 3.10')
Altitude: from 20 m (start) to 394 m. (max) to 0 m. (finish)
Total ascent: 503 m. Total descent: 506 m.
Signed with red paint marks
Drinking water on walk: no
Download GPS track: from Everytrail   from Wikiloc

           

           This is a walk mainly on earth road with sections of path, passing from some interesting spots. Starting from Volos football stadium just above the swimming center (we can go there by taxi or city bus nr.3), we walk on a path that climbs on the slope of the adjacent hill (named Goritsa) through pinewood. On our right are the headquarters of the local Scouting organisation. We cross the asphalt twice and later join it at an angle. The road leads to the top of the hill and the chapel of Panagia. The view over the top is excellent. All around this area lay the ruins of an ancient city, built at 4th century BC, that was abandoned a few decades later and even its name still remains unknown (see Pelion mythology-history).

View over Volos from the top of  the hill

        From the east side of the church we take a downhill path, seeing the cement factory down below. The path opens to an earth road and we walk on that to the northeast, passing under remains of the ancient city`s fortification. We come to a locked door and pass through an opening. Further on, the road turns right but we continue straight ahead on a path which soon opens to another earth road. Our course runs just above the cement factory`s old quarry. The road ends, we continue on a path through a grove and then on a road next to a fence. We come to a junction and take the concrete road on the right, going uphill. At the following junction we go straight ahead.

The cement factory

          From a certain point we enjoy panoramic view of the cement factory from above. The road continues unpaved, incorporating small sections of kalderimi. We pass by a watering trough with a ruined cistern and eventually come to a road junction with a large sign in Greek. The downhill road to the right leads to Agria and if we take that, our walk will be shorter by twenty minutes. We preferred to head straight on towards the small settlement of Anemoutsa. After a little while, we come to a small drinking water fountain without water. On the right is the chapel of  Taksiarches. From there, we take a downhill path with some sections of kalderimi, following the red marks. This opens to the forementioned earth road going down towards Agria. After 200 m. on the road, we come to a cypress tree and a shrine (attention). Here we turn right into the olive grove, cross a stream and immediately come to the old deserted monastery of Taksiarches. The church is in good condition after renovation, but the other buildings have sadly collapsed.

Τhe old monastery at Anemoutsa

       Always following the frequent red marks, we continue on a path on the right side of the stream, going towards the sea in front of us. Certain spots  may be unpleasant to people with fear of heights, but not really difficult.

On the narrow trail towards the sea

          We cross an olive grove, pass on the left side of the stream and join the road to Agria, which is paved with concrete. At the junction where the paved road turns left, we continue to the right on a narrow earth track. Following the course of the stream on our right side, we pass by the drinking water fountain of ''Yiannis'' (without water too), then a school on our left side. Walking on Porfirogeni (ΠΟΡΦΥΡΟΓΕΝΗ) str., we finally end up to the seafront of Agria with its plethora of tavernas and cafes. We can return to Volos by city bus nr. 5 or taxi.

Niaou (Afetes)-Neochori

Approaching Neochori

Distance: 6,1 km
Duration: 2 hours (walking time 1.45')
Altitude: from 235 m. (Niaou square) to 470 m. (Neochori square)
Total ascent: 281 m.  Total descent: 52 m.
Signed with round yellow signs and red paint marks
Drinking water on walk: no
Start: Niaou (Afetes) square
Finish: Neochori square
Download GPS track: from Wikiloc

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         In this walk, we follow the course of the old kalderimi, a significant part of which still exists. Its best part is near Neochori, at the old stone bridge. We also enjoy nice views over the sea near the village of Niaou. Only problem is, we have to walk on the main asphalt for half a kilometer. Neochori is also connected with hiking routes to Milies and Siki, and Niaou (Afetes) to Afissos (see respective walks). At the square of Neochori there is a restaurant open all year round, at Niaou during the summer season and weekends in winter. See bus timetables at www.ktelvolou.gr

        Niaou is a slavic toponym meaning ''pen'', and has been the original name of the village from its beginning in the Middle Ages until 1955, when it was unwisely decided to rename it ''Afetai'', after the ancient seaside settlement which, however, is unrelated to that area (it is considered to be situated at modern-day Platanias). The original name is still in use by the locals and should, in my view, be reinstated.

Niaou (Afetes)

          Starting from the square and the main church of Timiou Prodromou (St. John the Baptist), we climb on kalderimi for a few meters and then turn right on the cement road going uphill on an easterly direction. After crossing a stream and passing by a drinking water fountain, we notice the sign to the left and start climbing on a wide earth path which becomes kalderimi and then earth path again. It opens to a narrow asphalt road, which we follow to the right for thirty meters to find the continuity. We climb now on kalderimi on the slope, having a mansion on our left. This section was built in the early 50`s and remains in good condition.

Kalderimi climbing on the slope

        Higher up, we cross the stream to the left and walk on earth road, which opens to the main asphalt. We walk on this for twenty meters to the right and then take an earth track, parallel to the asphalt on its right side, going gently downhill to the east. There is a mansion at a distance of 50 meters to the right. On our way, we can make out bits of the old cobblestone.
        After a while, we cross the asphalt at an angle and continue on the other side. In front of us, we can see the road signs of the main asphalt junction (Delta) to Argalasti and we head on to that. Eventually, we join the asphalt and walk on this for 50 metres. Reaching the junction, we take the old road which runs parallel to the main asphalt on the left. If we look carefully, we will notice some traces of the old kalderimi at some point.
       The old road eventually joins again the main asphalt, which  has covered the kalderimi for more than a kilometer. We will avoid a significant section of asphalt, by taking after 20 meters the narrow earth road on the right, which opens out to the main road again at Agrigiannis winery after about 700 m. After the winery, we have to walk about 500 meters on the asphalt (no way to avoid that) and then we leave it to the right, taking a narrow earth road (at the junction there is a sign with a picture of a stone bridge).

Kalderimi in pinewood

         After twenty meters we leave the road to the left and walk downhill on a path which soon becomes a kalderimi crossing pinewood. We soon come to cross a stream over an old arched stone bridge. According to the inscription on the eastern keystone, it was built in 23 April 1895 on donation by Konstantinos Topalis, an eminent lawyer and politician from Volos.

The bridge of Topalis near Neochori

     Leaving the old bridge in quiet, we climb on kalderimi. Reaching the graveyard, it becomes concrete road. At the junction we go left and soon come to a parking lot. Climbing the stairs we finally arrive at the square of Neochori.

The square of Neochori

Platanias-Agios Spiridon monastery (circular)

Agios Spiridon monastery

Distance: 10,1 km
Duration: 3,5 hours with stops
Altitude: from 0 m. to 363 m.
Total ascent/descent: 405 m.
Signed with round yellow signs and red paint marks
Drinking water on walk: Agios Nikolaos chapel
Download GPS track:  from Wikiloc

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         In this circular walk, we climb from the tourist beach of Platanias following initially the main (eastern) route to Lafkos. Then take the earth road to the monastery of Agios Spiridon, and then return back through a connection to the route Promiri-Platanias.

         Starting from the seaside, initially we walk into the wide streambed. At the corner of a basketball pitch, we take the earth road on the left and start going uphill on a westerly direction, next to a small stream that lies on our left side. Futher up at a junction we go right and walk between olive groves on a northerly direction.  Just after a stone hut which is on our left side, noticing the signpost we leave the road to the right, crossing an olive grove. Αt the other end of the grove we enter the path and we soon cross the stream of Poros. This word means ''pass'' in Greek, but also ''running water'' in Slavic (poroj), so it is unclear where it comes from, as both meanings are valid in this case.

Agios Nikolaos chapel

          On the other bank we walk uphill on kalderimi, which eventually becomes an earth road leading to the quiet small chapel of Agios Nikolaos, a suitable place for a stop. Further up, the road takes a sharp left bend next to a cottage. The path originally goes straight ahead, but is unclear and we prefer to follow the road. We go past a first junction and at the following one we find  the path between the two roads in the middle. Further up, it opens to an earth road, which we follow to the left for 100 m. to find again the continuity of the path, watching out for the red paint marks on our right. Climbing up, we go past a cottage and a concrete water tank and join the asphalt road coming from Mikro beach. Walking 30 meters on the asphalt, we go past a narrow earth track on the right and then reach a junction with a wide earth road, which we follow for 100 meters and then find the path on the right, following the course of an overgrown gully.

         This leads us to the monastery of Agios Spiridon. Related to Promiri, it was destroyed by the Turks during the Greek revolution in 1823, was rebuilt in 1834 and currently functions as a nunnery having three nuns. It is open 8-12 in the morning and from 16.00 until sunset, every day except Friday.

Agios Spiridon monastery

       Leaving the monastery, we leave the main road and take the narrow earth track on the right going downhill. At the outside of the left turn we find the path, descending to an overgrown ravine with running water. We cross the stream and ascend on the other bank heading east. After a little while the path becomes an earth road. We pass under a cottage and then reach a road junction, where we go downhill to the right, following the small round signs. At the second junction we go right again and at the third one we go to the left. Eventually, we join the main kalderimi coming from Promiri and walk on this downhill. It goes out for a little while on an earth road and again continues to the left.

The main kalderimi to Platanias

       The cobblestone path opens at a concrete tank below, to the point where two streams come together. We continue on an uphill road, having on the right the fence of a cottage. At the upper corner of the fence we find the kalderimi, that descends for a few meters and then finally stops and becomes a footpath next to a low stone wall (pezoula). Then we pass on the right side of the stream and continue among olive trees. Here the trail is not so obvious, but we generally follow the course of the stream to the sea in a southerly direction, assisted by signs and red marks. Further on, we pass to the left side of the stream and walk on an earth road.

Walking into the streambed

     Eventually, we reach a point  just next to the stream, where the earth road turns left uphill to meet the asphalt, next to a road sign ''Have a Nice Trip-Welcome to Platanias''(we don`t take that route). In front of us is a private property. At this point we enter into the streambed on the right, which is normally dry and fairly easy (and pleasant) to walk on, and follow it for about 700 m. until it opens to the beach of Platanias.

Platanias

Αno Lechonia-Agios Georgios

Agios Georgios

Distance: 4,9 km
Duration: 2 hours (walking time 1.35')
Altitude: from 51 m. (start) to 610 m. (Agios Georgios)
Total ascent: 576 m.  Total descent: 17 m.
Signed with red paint marks and some signs
Drinking water on walk: no
Download GPS track:  from Everytrail   from Wikiloc

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       Τhis walk follows the course of the old kalderimi, most of which still remains in good condition, climbing constantly to Agios Georgios. From there, we can come down to Kato Gatzea or go to Agios Lavrentios, Hania, Tsagarada or Mouresi (see the appropriate walks). At all these destinations, we will find an open restaurant for food and drink all year round.

         From the main road junction at Ano Lechonia, we follow the asphalt uphill, crossing the train rails (we can park our car at the train station parking). After 100 m. there is a V-junction and we take the right branch. We pass by the old square, cross the asphalt and continue straight ahead on a narrow concrete road. At the end of it we join the asphalt again which is on our right. After a short while, we notice a small concrete bridge on the right crossing the stream of Koufala.

The stream of Koufala

           We cross to the right bank of the stream and climb past the old cemetery. Αt the opposite slope, we can see the houses of Paliokastro and higher up Agios Vlasios.

View to Agios Vlasios

          Further up, the kalderimi is covered by concrete. Reaching a junction at a dry water fountain, we don`t go straight ahead but take the sharp uphill turn to the right.  We join the asphalt at the beginning of a sharp left turn and after 100 m. the kalderimi takes off to the right, just after a junction with an earth road. We go past the small chapel of Agios Achilios, join an earth road for a short distance and then continue to the right on kalderimi again (the track on the left goes to Agios Vlasios). This section  is now in better shape after cleaning work by the Friends of the Kalderimi Association. We cross the asphalt, go past another cottage on οur right side and cross the asphalt again. Here we are at the settlement of Strofilos, which lies between Agios Vlasios and Agios Georgios.

The church of Agios Nikoaos in Strofilos settlement

          The church of Agios Nikolaos, which is on our way, is a suitable spot for a stop. According to the inscription, it was restored in 1879. A little further up, where the concrete road turns left, we go straight ahead on the kalderimi, only to join a concrete road again in 50 m. and continue climbing. Further up, where it takes a right turn (attention) we notice the red marks to the left and find the kalderimi again.

View to the sea

          Following the red marks, in a short while we come to an earth track, go left for a few meters and again on the uphill kalderimi to the right. We now climb steadily on a northeasterly direction, almost on a straight line (ignore a path branching off to the left). On our way we pass below a cottage, then join an earth track for a short distance and find again the kalderimi at an angle to the left.

Closing to Agios Georgios

         We walk next to a fence on our left side and eventually join the main asphalt, entering the village of Agios Georgios. We keep on the asphalt, as it has covered the old kalderimi and go past a marble drinking water fountain where water comes out from a lion`s mouth.

The main church of Agios Georgios

           We go past the main church of Agios Georgios (St. George) and finally reach the village square, opposite the museum of sculptor Nikolas.

The square of Agios Georgios on a sunny winter day

Ano Kerasia-Alfons memorial-Flamouri monastery (circular)

Distance: 18 km
Duration: 7 hours (walking time 5.40')
Altitude: from 660 m. (Ano Kerasia) to 965 m. (maximum)
Total ascent/descent: 834 m.
Signed with red paint marks
Drinking water on walk: at Flamouri monastery
Download GPS track: from Everytrail   from Wikiloc

        On January 15th 1981, 75-year old Alfons Hochhauser arrived at snow-covered Kato Koromilia peak at about noon, equipped with a bottle of brandy and some raisins. Shortly before dying from cold as he intended,  he wrote a note advising the team that would come searching for him, saying: ''Don`t come to search for me from Veneto, but rather (come) from Kerasia''. Οf course, his rescuers could not possibly get this advice, as the note would remain in his pocket until he was discovered in two months` time, when the snow started to melt. The note ends with these words: ''Unless some miracle happens, I will soon be frozen. Yes, I`m happy, happy to be on my way. Enough is enough...''

            In this circular walk, taking Alfons` advice, we set off from the end of the asphalt road at Ano Kerasia, to visit the memorial at the site of his death at Kato Koromilia peak and the monastery of Flamouri that is nearby. In comparison to the other similar circular walk in the area (Flamouri monastery-Kato Koromilia (Alfons memorial)),  this walk here suits those who do not want to stress their car (or do not have a 4X4) driving on the rough earth road to go near Flamouri. On the other hand, it is 1,5 hour longer in duration. After the walk, one can have lunch at the square of Kato Kerasia, where there is a restaurant open all year round.

            Leaving our car at the end of the asphalt, we continue on the earth road which leads to the square of Ano Kerasia, where lies the restored main church of Agii Apostoli. The village was burnt down by the German occupation army in 1944 and still remains in ruins, with only a handful of houses restored.

Agii Apostoli church before restoration

         A downhill cobblestone path (kalderimi) starts from the drinking water fountain at the entrance of the square and leads down to the old main drinking water fountain of the village. From there, we continue slightly uphill for a short distance on the slope, having on our right a deserted half-ruined stone hut, and soon come to cross a dry stream, next to the ruins of the old arched stone bridge that survived severely wounded until the early `80s.

The damaged stone bridge of Ano Kerasia in 1980, shortly before its collapse

        Climbing on the opposite slope on  kalderimi, we come to the end of an earth road and to a fenced grove on our right. In front of us is a path junction (attention). The path to the left leads to Flamouri monastery, following the course of the stream on a northerly direction. We take the path to the right going northeast and in a few metres (attention to the marks) turn right and start climbing on the rocky slope. There are two parallel paths, the one on the right has blue and red marks and is direct and sharp, while the other one on the left has red marks and climbs more gently taking turns, in order to help the mules that were carrying heavy loads. Further up the paths merge  and we come to a clearing, now for the most part overgrown with low cedar trees. We walk amongst the cedars to the east and at the upper side of the clearing find the continuity of he path, entering a beautiful beech forest. This area is called Kosta Rachi. From a certain point, we can see at the distance the overgrown peak of Pourianos Stavros (1624 m.).

            We cross an earth road and continue on the uphill path which opens to a road junction and we take the road to the left on an easterly direction. Further on, there is another junction and we again take the left road going northeast. After 50 m, we notice to the left the signed path to Flamouri monastery. We don`t take that, but continue on the road. After about one kilometre, as we are now heading north, we find the path again on the right, next to a pen (watch for the red marks). We climb uphill on a naked slope, crossing the earth road a couple of times and then join the road for a short distance. At the junction we turn left and immediately find the continuity of the path on the right entering the beech forest.

Beech forest  near Koromilia

             After a while, we come to a rocky area where trees grow scarce. Here we are at the site of Alfons` memorial, an engraved bronze piece of his boat ''Thetis'' prepared in advance by himself, fixed onto a rock by his friends.

Alfons` memorial at Kato Koromilia

         Alfons Hochhauser (1906-1981) was born in Styria, Austria but spent most of his life in Pelion, becoming a kind of a local legend. He left his home at the age of 16 and began wandering around the Mediterranean sea. After coming to Pelion in 1926, he lived as a shepherd and a fisherman and was involved in numerous sea diving expeditions. Returning back after the war, he created with his wife Chariklia a hostel for tourists wishing to spend their vacations close to nature, initially at Trikeri island and later at Koulouri beach near Veneto. Being diagnosed with cancer at the age of 75, he decided to climb to Koromilia peak on a snowy winter day and remain there, deliberately freezing to death. The story of this extraordinary man can be found in Kostas Akrivos` book ''Ποιος θυμάται τον Αλφόνς'' (''Who remembers of Alfons'', in Greek) and at the website www.alfons-hochhauser.de (in German). Read also Werner Helwig`s book ''Raubfisher in Hellas'' in German (Greek edition: Οι ληστές του βυθού, εκδόσεις iWrite).

Descending on the rocky ridge

           From the nearby concrete pole marking the peak of Kato Koromilia (827 m.), we start descending on the rocky ridge on a northerly direction, enjoying excellent view to the Aegean sea. If the sky is clear, we can see Athos mountain at the distance. Further down we change direction to the west.We come to a signpost, where we ignore a path with blue marks on the right which goes to Veneto`s Paliokastro and keep following the red marks.
          We cross the stream of Vathoulomeni and climb on the opposite slope, until we reach a yellow signpost at the ridge. Here we take the wide uphill path-kalderimi, which leads us to the monastery of Flamouri.

Flamouri monastery

       Built in the second half of 16th century, it still follows the athonite rules, so entrance is not allowed for women, who must remain outside. Male visitors, however, are welcome inside and can also stay overnight upon arrangement. Restauration works are ongoing. It currently has four monks and celebrates on the 6th of August (Transfiguration of Christ the Saviour). The monastery still operates without electricity, inaccessible by cars, keeping a unique, authentic feeling.

The entrance of  the monastery

         After filling our bottles from the drinking water fountain, we continue uphill initially in chestnut forest and then in beech forest again. A narrow path goes off to the left but we keep on the main path and cross a stream in a spectacular scenery, with water running through large rocks and tall beech trees.

Crossing the stream on the way to Stavros

           Further up, at the location called Stavros, we come to a parking lot where an earth road comes to end (the nearest you can get to the monastery by car), and walk on this downhill. At a junction we go left. After about half an hour, we reach the flat area of Kato Goura. Here is a junction, where an earth road goes uphill towards Ovrios beach and Pouri. We continue straight ahead for 150 m. and notice on the left a water pond and a watering trout for cattle. Now, we could return to Ano Kerasia by walking on the road, but it is preferable to take the path instead. So, we turn left and follow the red marks, passing near the spring of Kato Goura, located under a large beech tree (nowadays connected to the water system).

On the return path to Ano Kerasia

       Our path follows the course of the stream on our right side, on a southwesterly direction. Eventually, we come to the familiar path junction near the fenced grove and follow the route backwards to the start of our walk.

Restored Agii Apostoli church at the square of Ano Kerasia