Milies-Labinou-beach

View over Pagasitic gulf

Distance: 9,5 km
Duration: 3,5 hours (walking time 2.50')
Altitude: from 380 m. (Milies) to 660 m. (max) to 0 m.
Total ascent: 302 m.  Total descent: 670 m.
Signed with red paint and signs
Drinking water on walk: yes (Lambinou village)
Download GPS track:   from Everytrail    from Wikiloc

       The path from Milies to Lambinou was closed and forgotten for many years but now it is open again, thanks to the efforts of Manuel Baud-Bovy from Switzerland (grandson of Daniel, one of the three people first to climb to mt. Olympus in 1913) and his wife Aristea Tzanou. This excellent walk ends up at the Aegean sea.

Lambinou beach

          We must have arranged a taxi or bus to pick us up from the beach, otherwise we have to walk back (regular bus lines pass from the main asphalt just above Lambinou village, www.ktelvolou.gr). During the summer season, a taverna is open at the beach. We can also continue walking north to the beaches of Limnionas and Milopotamos (about 1-1,5 hour mostly on earth road).

      At Milies square the library building, inscripted with the words ''ΨΥΧΗΣ ΑΚΟΣ'' (psychis akos, “therapy for the soul”) is found just above the church and immediately to its right begins the kalderimi towards Labinou-Xourihti-Tsagarada. We start up this and pass a covered spring water drinking fountain on our left. We continue straight ahead, climbing past the houses of the village in an easterly direction. 

Kalderimi at Milies

       The kalderimi zigzags next to a plane tree, diagonally crosses a cement road and continues uphill in the same direction. We keep following the red marks and ignore any downhill kalderimis or roads crossing our path.
      A little further on, we continue on a concrete road as we leave the last houses of the village behind us and walk between apple orchards. At the second left hand bend, we leave the road and turn right onto a kalderimi next to a concrete water channel and water pipe. On our right is a row of cypress trees. We pass a stream bed over a small concrete bridge and continue on a lovely kalderimi/path.

Kalderimi in wild chestnut forest

                           We soon come to a crossing, at which the signpost indicates that we should turn up to the left onto a wide path, which becomes a kalderimi a little further up. We come out at an angle onto a kalderimi/road and continue uphill. In a short while, we meet and cross a wide earth road and continue in the same direction between chestnut trees. Where a road comes in from the right, we continue ahead in a northerly direction and soon reach a junction, where the path to Labinou branches off to the right. The location here is called Kefalas. There is a kiosk ahead on the road, which continues towards Xourichti and Tsagarada.

Path in arbutus forest

        Just 50 meters before the kiosk (attention!) we leave the road to the right, take the signed path to Labinou and follow it into the wood. On our way we find some sections of kalderimi.  We pass from the lower edge of a wide clearing, where sheep shearing (kouros) was performed in the past, as we were told by the old people. This was much like a feast, with many people gathering to assist, food and drink being at hand. Nowadays the area is deserted, most of its inhabitants have left the village and such stories only seem to belong to the past. Could they ever be revived, who knows? 

Manuel Baud-Bovy walking on the path  in arbutus forest

       

    Anyway, the path continues downhill on the ridge into thick shady arbutus forest, a joy to walk on. Eventually, it opens to an earth road, on which we walk downhill northeast. A little further down at a signed V-junction we go right and reach the small chapel of Agios Georgios (St. George). A narrow kalderimi continues to the main asphalt road  just below. Here is a refreshment kiosk that remains closed. If we wish, we can end our walk here, having walked 2,5 hours from Milies, and take the bus back to Volos via Neochori (www.ktelvolou.gr).
       An earth road continues downhill next to the kiosk. Reaching the low stone fence of the cemetery, we turn left and it becomes a kalderimi. We pass from Agia Paraskevi church and then cross the asphalt next to a large plane tree (here is a drinking water fountain), down to the village square of Labinou. Sadly, the cafe-restaurant at the square remains closed and deserted (last checked September 2021).

Labinou village square

                                   

    We go down the steps to a concrete road, next to the old disused water fountain, and walk down this initially, ignoring a narrow kalderimi on the right. After 50 m., we notice the wide kalderimi at an angle to the right and follow it, going northeast through the village.

Going down the kalderimi 

            

   Further down, we reach an old spring water fountain (Kria Vrisi) on the bed of a stream, next to an old olive press turned into a cottage. We follow this stream downhill. A little further down we get to the asphalt and walk on it downhill  to reach the entrance of the old monastery of Labidona, after which the village was named. It was built in 1796 by craftsmen from Zoupani village, North Greece. Dedicated to the Dormition of Virgin Mary, its annual feast is on August 23rd. For a long period it used to be deserted and unfenced, allowing free passage, but nowadays it is a nunnery, open Thursday to Sunday (see timetable here ).

Monastery of Labidona

          Leaving the monastery, we follow down the asphalt to the parking lot, from where an earth road sets off towards Limnionas and Milopotamos beaches. At the and of the asphalt lies a taverna (open in summer period, tel. 6973006910) and a paved path leads down to the nice little beach of  Labinou.

Labinou beach

Pelion: Mythology and History

       

Pelion, view to the south from Schidzouravli peak (1450 m.)

         Introduction

       Pelion stands out among the mountains of Greece. Although it is not very high (its highest peak, Pourianos Stavros, measures 1624 m.), because of its geographical position collects a lot of snow in winter. This results in plenty of spring water, creating high potential for human settlement: Pelion is the most densely inhabited mountain of Greece. It also remains overgrown with vegetation, just as it was in antiquity, as mentioned in poems of Homer and Hesiod. Its position inbetween two seas, the Aegean sea and Pagasitic gulf, means that mountain and sea are always very close to each other. Not many ski centers are only a few hours of walking time away from a beach, like  Pelion Ski Center at Chania.

Pelion, Papa Nero beach at Agios Ioannis

         This combination of mountain and sea, mythology and history, natural beauty and human works (old villages, monasteries, stone bridges, fountains, cobblestone paths), coupled with availability of both summer and winter touristical infrastructure and the presence of a large city nearby (Volos), is what makes Pelion so special. It is a paradise for walkers and nature lovers. Such is the multitude of its walking routes, that one can walk on a different route every day for three months and still have new walks to explore.
         Near the sea or the mountaintop, in dense beech, chestnut and oak forest, mediterranean maquis vegetation or olive and apple orchards, lasting from one up to eleven hours, circular or trekking from one village to another, Pelion has it all for everybody in terms of walking, except only for alpine zone at high altitudes. Skiing, mountain biking, canyoning, climbing, horseriding, diving, swimming, sailing, caving, kayaking, collecting herbs and mushrooms, all these activities and more are exercised in the Pelion area.

Pelion, walking on the kalderimi Lafkos-Milina

Mythology

      There are three major myths in reference to Pelion: the myth of Centaurs, Jason and the Quest for the Golden Fleece and the Weddings of Peleus and Thetis. 

       Centaurs were mythological creatures living in Pelion, with the head, arms and torso of a human and the body and legs of a horse. Their character was primitive, violent, impulsive and lusty. They lived in caves, hunting wild animals armed with rocks and tree branches. Centauromachy (the battle between Centaurs and Lapiths) is a favorite theme in ancient Greek temples: invited to the wedding of their half-brother king of Lapiths, the Centaurs got drunk and attempted to carry off the bride Hippodameia and the female guests. In the ensuing battle they were wiped out. Centauromachy is a metaphor for the imposition of human civilization over the lower, primitive appetites of humankind.

Centauromachy (from Parthenon marbles)

       Not all Centaurs were the same, though. Chiron, son of god Cronus and nymph Philyra, was wise, peaceful and civilized, the superlative among Centaurs. He knew the secrets of nature and mastered medicine, music, archery, hunting and prophecy. He was the teacher and mentor of many heroes of myth, including Jason, Peleus, Αsklepios, Aristaios and Achilles.

Centaur Chiron

        Jason was the son of Aeson, king of Iolkus. When Aeson`s brother, power-hungry Pelias  seized the throne, then Aeson, fearing for the life of his young son, sent him under the care of Centaur Chiron in Pelion to be raised and educated. Years later, having reached adulthood, Jason returned to claim back the throne of his father. On his way to Iolkus, he lost one his sandals in the flooded river Anaurus. An oracle warned Pelias to beware of the man wearing one sandal (''monosandalos''). So, confronting Jason, he told him he would have the throne, if he could bring back the Golden Fleece. This was at Colchis (modern-day Georgia) at the Black Sea, where Phrixus sacrificed the winged golden-hair ram that he and his sister Helle rode to escape from their stepmother Ino. Helle fell off the ram`s back and drowned in the straights called Hellespont after her, but Phrixus arrived safely to Colchis. The Golden Fleece was hung at the sacred oak of god Ares, guarded by a never sleeping dragon and defended by bulls with hoofs of brass and breath of fire.
       Jason accepted the challenge and asked the skilled shipwright Argus to build a ship for the long journey. At the port of Pagasai, from where Argo sailed, Jason gathered a ''dream team'' of heroes, the Argonauts, including Heracles, Theseus, Nestor, Peleus, Orpheus, Castor and Pollux, Telamon, Philoctetes, Euphemus and the Boreads Zetes and Calais (flying sons of Boreas, the North Wind). The only woman in the crew (though not certain) was Atalanta.

The new Argo at Volos harbour

      On their way, they favored king Phineas of Thrace by killing the Harpies (winged monsters that stealed his food). Phineas told Jason that the only way to reach Colchis was to sail through the Symplegades, huge rocks that came together crushing anything that traveled between them. He advised Jason to release a dove on approach, and if the dove made it through, to row with all their might behind it. If it was crushed, then they were doomed to fail and had to head back. Jason did as advised and the dove made it through, losing only a few tail feathers. Argo also made it through with minor damage to its prow. From that moment on, the rocks would remain immobile, leaving free passage.
     At Colchis, king Aetes asked Jason to perform certain tasks. He had to yoke the bulls that breathed fire and plow a field, then sow it with dragon teeth. All that would have been impossible without help from Aetes` daughter Medea, who fell in love with Jason. Being a sorceress, she provided an ointment that protected from the bulls` flames. She also warned Jason that an army of warriors was to sprout from the dragon teeth. Before they attacked him, he threw a rock into the crowd and, unable to discover who did it, the angry warriors killed one another. Then Jason sprayed the dragon with a potion Medea distilled from herbs, driving it to sleep, and took the Golden Fleece.

Jason and Medea taking the Golden Fleece

     This amazing story reflects the difficulties and dangers encountered by the brave seamen of the old times, who traveled through the Aegean and the Black Sea, creating wealth by trading of goods. The myth of Argo lived again in 2004-2006, when a replica of a penteconter with 50-oar crew was built in Volos, using tools and techniques of antiquity. That ship traveled to Corfu and Agii Saranda in the Adriatic Sea in 2008, and in the following year the modern Argonauts were able to complete the trip from Volos to ancient Colchis reaching Batumi, Georgia at the Black Sea.

The new Argo sailing

         The last myth involves Peleus, king of the Myrmidons of Magnesia. The name Pelion comes after him. His wife Thetis was a Nereid (sea nymph), daughter of sea god Nereus. Zeus knew of an oracle predicting that Thetis` son would become greater than his father. Fearful of losing his position as the supreme of gods, like himself had dethroned his father Cronus, he wanted Thetis to marry a human, but she refused. Taking god Proteus` advice, Peleus hid in a sea cave in Pelion`s east coast, where Thetis used to come and rest. When she came out of the sea unaware, Peleus grabbed her tightly. Trying desperately to escape, she transformed herself into a lion, fire, snake and finally a cuttlefish (sepia), throwing her ink over him. Realising that no matter what she did, Peleus would not let her go, she surrendered and conceded to marry him.

Thetis trying to escape Peleus

      Their weddings took place in Pelion, outside Chiron`s cave. All gods were invited except Eris, the goddess of discord. To take revenge for the insult, she cast among the guests a golden apple with the inscription ''te kalliste'' (to the fairest). As expected, three goddesses (Hera, Athena and Aphrodite) claimed the apple, demanding from Zeus to decide which one of them was the fairest. Reluctant to favor any claim himself for obvious reasons, Zeus declared that Paris, son of Priamus, king of Troy, would be the judge in this goddess beauty contest.
     The three goddesses, after bathing in the spring of Ida in Crete, appeared before Paris, offering him gifts for favour: Hera offered ruling power and wealth, Athena skill and wisdom; but Aphrodite offered him the love of  Helen of Sparta, wife of  king Menelaus, the most beautiful woman on earth. Perhaps inevitably, the young prince  chose to give the apple to Aphrodite, thus setting the scene for the great Trojan War.

The judgement of Paris

       Achilles, the great hero of the Trojan War, was the son of Peleus and Thetis. Knowing of the prophecy that her son would live a glorious but short life, Thetis sought to make the child invulnerable by immersing it to the waters of Styx, river of Hades, holding it from its heel. In another version of the myth, she anointed Achilles with ambrosia and burnt his mortality into the hall fire at night. Confronted with that and fearing for the child`s life, Peleus interrupted Thetis, who fled away in anger, leaving Achilles` heel as the only vulnerable part in his body. Peleus then sent the boy to Centaur Chiron to teach and educate.

History

         There are testimonies of human presence around Pelion from prehistorical times. The acropolis at Sesklo and Dimini near Volos were inhabited from Neolithic period (5th millenium BC) until the Mycenean era (12th century BC). Latest data identify the Mycenean settlement of Dimini with the ancient city of Iolkus. Some other ancient settlements around Pelion were Pagasai, Amfanai, Olizon, Neleia, Koropi, Spalauthra, Orminion, Kasthanea, Glafyrai. 

Entrance of Mycenean tomb 

Interior of  Mycenean tholos tomb ''Lamiospito'' at Dimini near Volos

                                                                At the hill of Goritsa next to Volos lay the ruins of a hellenistic city built in 4th century BC, which was abandoned a few decades later and even its name still remains unknown. In 294 BC, king Demetrios of Macedonia founded the city of Demetrias at modern-day Pefkakia near Volos. Ruins of its walls, the palace, water system and the ancient theatre can still be seen today. Demetrias became the favourite residence of the kings of Macedonia and later was the capital of Magnesian Alliance and an episcopal see under Roman emperor Constantine. The city was finally abandoned by the late byzantine period (13th-14th century AD) or possibly even earlier.

Walking on the ruins of the walls of ancient Demetrias (in winter) opposite Volos

         During the byzantine period, the inhabitants of Demetrias moved to the nearby Castle of Volos (some remains of it can be seen at the city hill of Palea) for better protection from barbarian and piratic raids. Slavic people raided and eventually settled down in Pelion, as testified by a multitude of Slavic names still surviving, like Zagora, Goritsa etc. The name Golos (later Volos), of Slavic origin too (from golo=naked or golosh=seat of administration in Old Slavonic), is first mentioned in written archives of late 13th century. The basis for several eminent Pelion villages (Zagora, Makrinitsa and Portaria) was set in 12th century, around the monasteries of Sotira, Oxeias Episkepseos  and Drianouvena  respectively. Other Pelion villages also developed following that example. Pelion was full of  monasteries at that time, very much like the Athos peninsula, like a second ''Holy Mountain''.

Monastery of Agios Lavrentios, main church built 1378 AD

         The Ottoman Turks seized the Castle of Volos in 1423 AD and all Christian people living there were forced to abandon it and move higher up the mountain. Indeed, during the Ottoman period (15th to 19th century) the Turks preferred to settle down at fertile low grounds, such as those of Lechonia and Argalasti, leaving to the Christians the mountainous slopes of Pelion, more difficult to cultivate, that were of no interest to them. The developing mountain villages remained essentially self-governed, being required to pay an annual tax and left otherwise alone by the Turkish authorities. That privilege layed the ground for the thriving of Pelion, reaching its climax in 18th and 19th century.

Old traditional Pelion mansion

        Groups of skilled stone builders from Zagori region of Epirus, Northwestern Greece came and built the mansions, monasteries, bridges, fountains and kalderimis (cobblestone paths) that we admire today. Products (mainly olive oil, olives, fruits, chestnuts, silk, timber) were carried by mules through the kalderimis down to the sea (every village had its own beach used as port) and shipped to the major ports of East and West. Zagora was famous for its excellent ships. On donations by wealthy merchants, higher schools were founded, like Ellinomouseion in Zagora and the School of Milies.

 Ellinomouseion school at Zagora (on the right)

       In 1881, Pelion along with the whole region of Thessaly was swiched from the Ottoman Empire to the young State of Greece. The modern city of Volos outside the castle had been founded just forty years before, when wealthy merchants were granted permission to build houses and churches outside of the castle by the Sultan himself in Constantinople (Istambul), provided of course that a significant sum of money be deposited to the Sultan`s personal account. Thanks to its position as the main port of Thessaly for importing and exporting goods, and to the subsequent building of much needed port and railway infrastructure, the young city of Volos thrived under Greek rule.

View of Volos from the hill of Goritsa

                 

                                        At the end of 19th century, it was decided to build a narrow railroad of 60 cm gauge (Decauville type) from Volos to Pelion villages, originally scheduled to extend up to Zagora. Evaristo De Chirico, an Italian engineer, father of the eminent surrealist painter and sculptor Giorgio de Chirico (who was born in Volos), was put in charge of the project. Starting operation in 1895, the rails finally extended up to the village of Milies in 1903 and the train remained in regular service until 1971. Since 1996, it operates again as a heritage railway for tourists during the summer season (April to October) -a must for all visitors., actually attracting more than 20000 in 2018.

Τhe train of Pelion over the metal bridge near Milies station

      The ravages of 2nd World War, the ensuing Greek Civil War and the massive earthquakes of 1955-57 all took their toll. Civilians were executed and villages were burnt down by the German occupation forces (Milies, Drakia, Agios Vlasios, Kanalia etc.- the village of Ano Kerasia still remains in ruins). Volos lost to the earthquakes most of its fine neo-classical style urban mansions, sadly replaced by blocks of flats. Following the development of mechanised transport, many of the old kalderimis and paths were destroyed and converted to roads. The villages of Pelion faced a post-war economic decline, mitigated by the gradual rise of tourism from the 70`s and on.

Hatzikyriazi mansion, Volos (lost to the earthquakes)

      Nowadays, Volos is a lively modern city of about 150.000 inhabitants, seat of the University of Thessaly, and Pelion seems to strike a balance between land cultivation and tourism. Provided that its strong assets are being protected and used to advantage, Pelion should be able to justify its status as a ''paradise'', bearing always in mind that no paradise on earth can be perfect.

Pelion, beech forest above Makrinitsa in early November

   

Αlli Meria (Volos)-Hania

Distance: 11,4 km
Duration: 4,5 hours (walking time 3,5 h)
Altitude: from 215 m. (Alli Meria) to 1200 m. (Hania)
Total ascent: 1030 m. Total descent: 49 m.
Signing: red marks, a few signs
Drinking water on walk: yes
Download GPS track:   from Everytrail   from Wikiloc

          In this walk, we are following the historical old mule track which connected Volos to the villages of East Pelion (Zagora, Makrirachi, Kissos etc.). We start from the village of Alli Meria at the outskirts of Volos, because the first section of the original route has become an asphalt road and therefore is unpleasant to walk. We can go from Volos to Alli Meria by city bus nr. 7 (end of the line) or by taxi and return from Hania by regional bus (www.ktelvolou.gr). Another option is to continue walking from Hania to Zagora or Anilio, Kissos, Tsagarada, Mouresi, Agios Lavrentios, Agios Georgios (see the respective routes). At Hania there are hotels and restaurants open all year round.

         Starting from the drinking water fountain at the square of Alli Meria, we walk on a narrow flat stone paved road, formerly a kalderimi (cobbled stone path). We pass by Hadziargiris` imposing old mansion on our left, then go right at a T-junction, cross the asphalt below to the small chapel of Agii Anargiri and continue uphill on a concrete road. From the end of the road, we walk next to the fence of a mansion which is on our left, having on the right the ravine of Anavros, overgrown with plane trees.

Walking next to a mansion's fence

           The kalderimi opens to a road junction near a tank of the water system and we take the uphill road that has a black plastic water pipe on its side, which serves us as a guide. Further up, there is another water tank where the black pipe ends and we get to an asphalt road. After ten meters on the road, we find the continuity of the kalderimi on our left. It opens to another asphalt, on which we walk uphill  and after fifty meters we notice the wide kalderimi on the right side going steadily uphill. We reach the small square of Katichori called ''Pazarouli''. A little further up, there is a drinking water fountain on the side of the road. Here we take the concrete road that ascends steeply next to the fountain. This is the old kalderimi, now covered with concrete, which avoids passing through Portaria to save time (we can still go to Portaria if we want-see the route Portaria-Alli Meria).
           The concrete track opens to the main asphalt, just under Portaria Hotel. From the small parking area on the right, we can see steps climbing up to a parallel asphalt road a little higher. We walk on this to the right (to the east) until it leads to a christian school's summer camping area (ΓΕΧΑ), and continue on a narrow dirt track next to the upper side of it. This used to be a proper kalderimi until recently, but was sadly destroyed to lay an underground water pipe...One wonders, why are the authorities consistently failing to protect the cobblestone and turn a blind eye to its destruction? Why can`t they realise its value at least for the tourists and visitors?

Kalderimi into chestnut forest (in winter)

            Anyway, a section of kalderimi survives further on, then it is covered by concrete next to a cottage and then appears again, climbing into chestnut forest. On our way is a drinking water fountain and a kiosk next to Agia Triada chapel. From some spots, we enjoy beautiful views to Portaria village and the sea down below or to the peaks Agriolefkes and Schitzouravli above to the east.

View to the peaks Agriolefkes, Golgothas and Schidzouravli

              We cross a dirt road and after a little while reach a watering trough. After this, the kalderimi takes a left turn. Here a path goes straight ahead towards Drakia, marked with blue paint. We continue uphill on the kalderimi and reach the main asphalt to Hania, next to another watering trough and a telecommunication antenna. We walk a few meters on the asphalt downhill (attention, downhill) and find the path-kalderimi that continues parallel to the road a few meters below on the right (follow the red marks). Eventually we join the asphalt again for 50 meters. Just before a sharp right turn, noticing the handmade sign to Hania (in greek, "Χάνια"), we take the narrow road to the left, initially among apple orchards, then becoming kalderimi into beech forest.

Kalderimi into beech forest approaching Hania

              Eventually, the path-kalderimi opens to a dirt road next to a football pitch. We take this road uphill and soon reach Manthos hotel. We continue on the same direction and pass a small stream, finding a small stretch of the original kalderimi near Zisis hotel. After that, we walk on an asphalt road for a few meters and then go left uphill on a dirt track to reach the main asphalt at Hania just above us, at the corner of Kokkinis hotel-restaurant (To hani tou Kokkini).

Zisis` old hani (hostel) around 1920 (now gone)

Flamouri monastery-Kato Koromilia (Alfons memorial)

View to Flamouri monastery from Stavros

Distance: 12,5 km
Duration: 5,5 hours (walking time 4.30')
Altitude: from 780 m. (start) to 430 m. (min) to 965 m. (max)
Total ascent: 587 m. Total descent: 644 m.
Signing: red paint marks, a few metal signs
Drinking water on walk: yes (Flamouri monastery)
Download GPS track:   from Everytrail     from Wikiloc

         This is an excellent circular walk in North Pelion to visit Flamouri monastery and Alfons Hochhauser`s memorial, which is located at the site of his death near Kato Koromilia peak. To reach the start of the walk, we need preferably a 4x4 car, but a normal car can also do the job. From the National Resistance monument on the asphalt road just before Ano Kerasia we take the earth road to the left heading northeast to Flamouri monastery. We reach a junction and go right, past the chapel of Agia Paraskevi. This section is suitable for normal cars too, but later, after a junction with an uphill road to the right that leads to Ovrios beach, our road gets rougher, so if we have a normal car we`d better leave it there and walk on the road for half an hour. On our way we meet a V- junction and go right uphill.

      The road eventually ends at the location called Stavros. Here is the proper start of our walk. We take the wide downhill path-kalderimi to reach the impressive monastery of Flamouri after half an hour. Built in the second half of 16th century, it still follows the athonite rules, so entrance is not allowed for women. Male visitors, however, are welcome inside and can also eat and stay overnight. Restauration works are underway. It currently has four monks and celebrates on the 6th of August (Transfiguration of Christ the Saviour).

Flamouri monastery

        We continue descending on the main path, ignoring two minor uphill paths. We come to a junction with a yellow signpost and take the narrow path on the right that crosses the stream of Vathoulomeni and then starts to wind uphill on the opposite slope.

Down on the path to cross Vathoulomeni stream

          We keep following the red marks going uphill, ignoring a downhill path with blue marks that leads to Paliokastro of Veneto and Spilies. At the junction there is a signpost: red marks going uphill to Alfons memorial, blue marks going downhill to Paliokastro-Spilies. Looking around, as we ascend on the ridge to a southerly direction, we can see the monastery from above as a reassuring sign of human presence in an otherwise wild and unyielding landscape.

View to the north from Koromilia ridge

            After reaching the concrete pole marking the peak of Kato Koromilia (827 m.), we find nearby Alfons` memorial fixed onto a rock, an engraved bronze piece of his boat ''Thetis'' prepared in advance by himself. Alfons Hochhauser (1906-1981) was born in Styria, Austria but spent most of his life in Pelion. He left home at the age of 16 and began wandering around the Mediterranean sea. After coming to Pelion in 1926, he lived as a shepherd and a fisherman and was involved in numerous sea diving expeditions. Returning back after the war, he created with his wife Chariklia a hostel for tourists wishing to spend their vacations close to nature, initially based at Trikeri island and then at Koulouri beach near Veneto. Being diagnosed with cancer at the age of 75, he decided to climb to Koromilia peak on a snowy winter day and stay there, deliberately freezing to death. He was discovered two months later, when the snow started to melt. The story of this extraordinary man can be found in Kostas Akrivos` book ''Ποιος θυμάται τον Αλφόνς'' (''Who remembers of Alfons'', in Greek) and at the website www.alfons-hochhauser.de (in German).

Alfons Hochhauser's  memorial

           Leaving Alfons` memorial, we continue in the same direction slightly uphill (watch for the red marks) and find the path entering the beech forest. This after a while joins an earth road that zigzags down a slope (some bits of the original path remain in between) and then continues on flat terrain heading south-southwest. After about 1,5 kilometer on the road, watching on our right we find a path marked with red paint and a walker sign heading north and follow it into the beech forest.

Walking on the return path 

          This eventually opens to the path-kalderimi that leads to Flamouri monastery, next to a drinking water fountain, a little below the end of the road at Stavros, from where our walk had started. 

Hania-Zagora

Kalderimi in beech forest

Distance: 9,5 km
Duration: 3,5 h (walking time 2.50')
Altitude: from 1218 m.(Hania) to 477 m. (Zagora)
Total ascent: 108 m. Total descent: 818 m.
Signed with red paint marks and yellow metal signs
Drinking water on walk: yes (asphalt road near Zagora)
Download GPS track:   from Everytrail   from Wikiloc

           This used to be part of the main route connecting Zagora to Volos in the days before the construction of the asphalt road in the 1930`s, consisting entirely of kalderimi (cobblestone). The rest of the original kalderimi  from Hania to Volos can be found in the walk Alli Meria (Volos)-Hania.
           In the first section of this walk from Hania to Profitis Elias chapel, we walk in beautiful beech forest (1,5 h). In the second section from Profitis Elias down to the asphalt road bridge (1 h), the kalderimi passes mainly between apple orchards (with a small part in chestnut forest). In the final section from the bridge to Zagora, we have to walk on the asphalt road, because this has covered the old kalderimi.

 UPDATE 2022: The kalderimi is overgrown at places below Profitis Elias chapel and because of that, it is difficult to pass through.

            From Zagora, we can continue descending for 1 h 15' to get to the tourist beach of Horefto and have a swim in the crystal clear Aegean sea (see Zagora-Horefto route). We can return from Horefto to Zagora and from Zagora to Hania and Volos by KTEL regional bus (www.ktelvolou.gr). Another option, if we have a rented taxi or bus, is to arrange to collect us from the asphalt road bridge and take us to Zagora or Pouri (to walk on the excellent Pouri-Horefto route), in order to avoid walking on the asphalt, which (walking) anyway takes place into an overgrown and attractive scenery, to compensate for the inconvenience.

The old kalderimi remains in good condition near Hania, a joy to walk on

          Starting from Kokkinis hotel-restaurant (To Hani tou Kokkini) on the main road at Hania, we initially ascend on the asphalt for a few meters to reach Pileas hotel. From the other end of Pileas` parking lot, two dirt roads continue northeast and we take the narrow one on the right, which ends in fifty meters and continues as kalderimi. In a short while we reach a small plateau, used for making charcoals in the past, to which a dirt road also comes from the left. At the other end we find again the kalderimi, clear and in good condition, descending nicely into the beech forest. We can see Agriolefkes peak with the ski slopes at the distance on our right.

Agriolefkes peak (1470 m.) with the ski center

        On our way down we cross the asphalt ten times, finding the kalderimi directly on the opposite side or after walking a short distance to the left. On the final (tenth) time on the asphalt, we walk on to the left and notice the entrance to the peaceful chapel of Profitis Elias (ΠΡΟΦΗΤΗΣ ΗΛΙΑΣ), a suitable place for a stop.

Profitis Elias chapel

          After just another five meters on the asphalt, we find the kalderimi again. From now on, it winds down between apple orchards and we must apply high caution not to lose it at certain spots. After crossing a dirt road, further down we come out to another narrow road and follow it, noticing the sign. A little further on, as the road starts to go slightly uphill, we leave it to the left to the overgrown kalderimi, which is not readily noticeable (attention to the red marks).

Invisible kalderimi through orchards

         Further down, the kalderimi takes a left turn through an apple orchard, we cross another dirt road (attention to the marks) and enter into chestnut forest. Unfortunately, this beautiful stretch soon ends joining a concrete road, which has replaced the kalderimi.

The kalderimi in chestnut forest

           Walking steadily downhill on the concrete road, we meet two junctions and go right. Eventually, we reach the main asphalt road  and cross over the large Galanorema stream. According to Nikos Haratsis` book ''A hiker`s guide to mt.Pelion'', a few meters down below there used to be an arched stone bridge in the past, which was long ago destroyed. 

             From here on, we have to walk on the asphalt, because this has replaced the old cobblestone all the way to Zagora. Entering the village, we pass by the drinking water fountain Kamara on our left side, with a kalderimi-concrete road ascending to Agia Paraskevi church. Continuing on the main asphalt, we soon reach the Agia Kiriaki church square on the right, a good place for a refreshing stop.

Agia Kiriaki church square at Zagora

          The track of the recorded walk ends on  the main asphalt road of Zagora, shortly before Agios Georgios church square, exactly at the spot where we meet the kalderimi going down to Horefto (see Zagora-Horefto walk).