Damouchari-Mouresi

Damouchari

Distance: 5,6 km (with return)
Duration: 2,5 hours with stops (walking time 1.50')
Altitude: from 0 m. (Damouchari) to 385 m. (Mouresi square)
Signed with:  red marks and signs
Drinking water on walk: Damouchari, Mouresi square

  Download GPS track:   from Wikiloc    from Everytrail

       The small port of Damouchari used to be the only place at the eastern coast of Pelion, where a ship could safely dock in case of bad weather. The ruins of Byzantine fortifications, as well as the customs and storage buildings still standing, are a testimony to its importance.  In addition to the kalderimi (cobbled stone path) to Tsangarada (see the route Tsangarada-Damouchari-Ai Giannis in this site), there were also two kalderimis going to the village of Mouresi, to which it belonged. Today, Damouchari is a tourist resort with hotels and cottages. In 2006, some scenes of the Hollywood movie Mamma mia!, starring Meryl Streep, were shot here, adding to its fame.

        In this easy circular walk, we climb from Damouchari to Mouresi square using the northern (lower) kalderimi and return by the southern (higher) one, which passes by Agia Paraskevi church.

        Starting from the end of the asphalt road at Damouchari, having parked our car there, we follow initially the asphalt uphill until we reach a junction with a fountain, where another asphalt road goes right downhill (this is the one to take if we are walking to Ai Giannis). The main asphalt here takes a sharp left bend and on the outside, noticing a red mark, we find an uphill path, which soon becomes a kalderimi. Reaching a cottage, it gets blocked by wild vegetation and we have to walk next to it on the left, following its course until we reach the asphalt again. We follow the road for 200 m. (there is another section of the path cutting the corner, but it is completely blocked and impassable) and then, just after a pen, we find the path on the left going uphill at an angle, with a sign to ''Mouresi'' (in Greek).

Ai Giannis with Papa Nero beach on the right

      We are climbing on alternate sections of path and kalderimi, seeing down below Ai Giannis and Papa nero beach,  and then another kalderimi coming from Ai Giannis joins in from the right. We cross the asphalt and continue uphill on kalderimi that futher up opens out on the asphalt. After 100 m., as the road takes a sharp left turn, we continue straight on to find the kalderimi again, climbing on a straight line. Joining a concrete road with a central stone paved lane, we go left and in 30 m. there is another junction, where we go right, leaving behind us the elementary school. We soon reach the central square of Mouresi, featuring the church of Agia Triada (Holy Trinity) and a taverna, in about 1.15' from the start.

Mouresi square-Agia Triada church

       Now to return to Damouchari, we walk on the asphalt on the right side of the church. This road eventually joins the asphalt going to Damouchari, on which we walk downhill, passing next to Agia Paraskevi church and the graveyard. As the asphalt takes a left turn, noticing a sign, we go straigt on to find the kalderimi.

Agia Paraskevi church

         At a distance we can see the first houses of Tsangarada, having Halorema stream in between. We reach the asphalt and go right for a few meters, then left. Further down, we cross the asphalt and continue on a narrow road, half concrete and half kalderimi. On the side there is a line of cypress trees. We come at a V-junction and go left on concrete. After 100 m., noticing a sign on the right side, we find the kalderimi again, walking into a tunnel  of vegetation. It joins an earth road at an angle and after a stretch on the road, we go left on the kalderimi again, then another section of earth road and  again to  the kalderimi on the right.

       We already enjoy beautiful views of Damouchari from above. Finally, the kalderimi opens to a concrete road with a central stone paved lane. To the left, it gets in 50 m. to the point where we started at the end of the asphalt, from where a kalderimi continues down to the sea. To the right, it leads to Damouchari beach, passing between olive groves and cottages.

Port of Damouchari

Damouchari beach

Pouri-Chorefto

Pouri

Distance: 5,7 km
Duration: walking time 1.50', total time (with stops) 2,5 h.
Altitude: from 423 m. (Pouri) to sea level
Signed with: red marks, a few signs
Drinking water on walk: beaches Analipsi, Tourkovrisi, Parisena

  Download GPS track:   from Wikiloc    from Everytrail     

          This is an excellent route, with sections of unique natural beauty offered by the paradise on earth that  Pelion mountain is. In the first part we climb on calderimi (cobbled stone way) down to the church of  St. John the Baptist (the kato [lower] Ai Giannis, as it is called by the locals), and then walk along the Aegean coastline, passing from several beautiful beaches, to finish at the large tourist beach of Horefto. Here, as well as in Pouri and Zagora of course, one can find restaurants and hotels and we can return by bus (check the timetables at www.ktelvolou.gr). The whole route is clean, except maybe from a tiny section of path near Ai Giannis church, which can be bypassed if necessary.

         At the end of the main asphalt road at Pouri, the bus stops to turn back at a concrete plateau that also serves as a parking lot. From its south edge (in the direction of Zagora) we follow a narrow downhill asphalt road (formerly kalderimi). In a few meters, next to the elementary school, the asphalt turns right and reveals a kalderimi in excellent condition on the left. Further down, it opens to a narrow asphalt next to a plane tree. Walking on the asphalt for 30 m downhill, we find again the kalderimi on the right and continue to descend.

Approaching the graveyard of Pouri

           We cross another asphalt and the kalderimi leads to the graveyard of Pouri. We pass next to a church and after a few meters (attention), watching out for the red marks, turn left downhill into forest. We descend in a beautiful natural scenery, first in forest and then amidst lower vegetation, in alternate sections of kalderimi and path. Eventually, the path opens to an earth road, descending in a southeasterly direction. We pass by a cottage and reach a junction with another road. Here we turn left and in a few meters right to a downhill path. The last time we passed (July 2012), unlike previous times, it was all but blocked by vegetation for 10 meters and we had to clean it with hand tools. If it is blocked indeed, then going back to the road junction we take the road to the right, heading southeast and after 150 m. there is an earth road on the left with a metal door, that after an initial bend leads straight to the church, which we see near the sea next to a few cypresses. The path I mentioned before opens to another earth road that immediately crosses the road to Ai Giannis and we go left.

Ai Giannis church near the sea rock

          In his book ''A hikers` guide to Mt.Pelion'', Nikos Haratsis says referring to Ai Giannis of Pouri: ''Of all the small country churches of Pelion, I think that this one has unique grace, unique solitude and  a unique view of the Aegean. Like a lonesome lighthouse keeper, rooted on this steep rock, twenty meters above the sea. Its only companions are a few trees-walnut, lemon, olive, cypresses-and a small hut beside it. If you walk to the edge of the rock and look to the east, you can see the capes of Horefto, Agios Ioannis of Kissos and Damouchari. Dear Lord, there are not enough hymns to praise this holy place you have blessed us with''.
       Coming back from the church,  we walk straight on the road, pass through the metal door (it was open anyway) and continue to the left on earth road, that soon becomes concrete and opens to a sharp bend of the asphalt coming from Pouri. Walking on the asphalt downhill, we get to another bend, with a sharp left turn towards Elitsa beach that is nearby. At this point we continue straight ahead on an earth road, and pass a stream over a concrete bridge. At a junction we take the road to the left and pass by the small chapel of Analipsi, newly built, as the stream flooded in recent years and destroyed completely the old church. We then reach the homonymous beach (Analipsi), pass by a taverna near the sea and, just at the end of the beach, after the last house, there is a narrow path on the right climbing the slope. At a junction we head left, walking parallel to the coastline, twenty meters above the sea.

Analipsi beach as seen from the path

       Soon the path widens and we find ourselves wishing it would never end, due to the striking natural beauty around us.

Tourkovrisi beach

         We pass above Tourkovrisi beach and then next to a white shrine, built, as we were told, by a local after he had found an icon into the sea. There are sections of kalderimi on our way, more and more often.

The shrine between Tourkovrisi and Parisena beaches

        The kalderimi passes by the renovated old Pantos mansion and opens to the sandy beach of Parisena. This one, like Tourkovrisi, maintain a ''hippie'' style, as they are both accessed only by foot, and one can find here free campers and nudists, young and old.

Pantos mansion above Parisena beach

          Walking along Parisena beach on the sand, we find at the other end a path-kalderimi that takes us to the tourist location of Horefto.

Zagora-Chorefto

Horefto

Distance: 3,1 km one way (6,2 km with return)
Duration: 1h.15´ total time one way (walking time 1 h one way)
Altitude: from 472 m. (Zagora) to sea level (Horefto)

Total elevation gain: 442 m. Total elevation loss: 459 m.
Signed with red paint and metal signs
Drinking water on walk: no (only at the squares)

Start: Agios Georgios square

End: Above Metamorphosis church (Sotira), at the corner of Voltou str. with the main asphalt.

Last checked: March 2021


Download GPS track:   from Wikiloc   

       There are two main kalderimi (cobbled stone path)  routes linking Zagora and Horefto, one starting from Agios Georgios square and another from Metamorphosis (or Sotira) church, so one can use both to make a circular walk. We can also walk one way and return by bus (see timetables at www.ktelvolou.gr) or taxi. It is advisable to wear long trousers and hiking shoes, because vegetation may be overgrown at certain spots, mostly in the southern route, despite some efforts to keep the routes clean. 

        Starting from the lower corner of Agios Georgios square in Zagora, opposite to the church, we walk on the asphalt to the right, in a southerly direction. Reaching the post office after 50 m., we turn left downhill on kalderimi, passing next to a renovated mansion, then turn left downhill. The kalderimi opens to the main asphalt, where we turn right and walk for another 30 m. to find again the kalderimi on the left, noticing the red paint marks. Further down it gets covered by concrete and opens out to the asphalt going to Horefto, just above the old building that used to house the Ellinomouseion school where the national hero Rigas Velestinlis teached in late 18th century (there is a sign ''ΣΧΟΛΕΙΟ ΡΗΓΑ''). A little lower is the graveyard and a church.

The church next to Ellinomouseion School

       Walking on the asphalt for another 50 m., we find again the kalderimi on the left. Further down it becomes an earth road. Reaching a T-junction we head left, among apple tree groves.  We can see traces of cobbled stone into the road. At a V-junction we go downhill. A little further down, as the road takes a downhill right turn (attention) we leave it to the left, to find again the kalderimi that is half covered by soil and barely visible. We cross a small stream and walk on a narrow path following its left bank for a few meters (we step over a water tube), then a section of kalderimi again, then earth road.

         Reaching a junction, we take a sharp right turn. Our road soon turns left downhill and at that point (attention), just after the end of the turn, we climb down to the right, noticing the red marks on the bricks. For a few meters the kalderimi is not visible, covered by soil, but then emerges again going downhill on a straight line, between groves. A little further down, there is a wooden fence with a sign on the right.

Zagora agricultural cooperative site

          Soon our path reaches the site of the agricultural cooperative of Zagora (''Zagorin''). We have to climb down a steep narrow path to get to the earth road above the site. Here steps should be constructed to facilitate access to the road. At the corner of the fence we go right, following it around the estate. Reaching a large metal door at the fence, we go left to find the kalderimi a few meters down below, heading east on a straight line. This section suffers from fast-growing brumble, so long trousers are indispensable.

        After a little while, there is a cottage with a stone fence in front of us. We walk down next to the fence, then follow the concrete road and cross the asphalt. There is yet another fence at the left. We cross the asphalt again and walk on a concrete road on the other side. As the concrete road turns left (ATTENTION), the course of the kalderimi continues straight ahead. Only problem is, you can`t see it and you can`t walk on it,  because it is covered with vegetation and branches that are thrown on it. We have to  follow its course walking above and next to it freely through the olive grove, until lower down we are able to join the proper path again. (last checked  March 2021). 

Approaching Horefto

        Further down, we reach the asphalt again as it takes a right turn. We go left on a narrow road to find the kalderimi immediately on our right. It opens to a concrete road and then to the asphalt again. In a few meters we take a concrete road on the right leading to a private property entrance, only to find the kalderimi next to the fence. We finally reach the seaside road of Horefto. There is a parking lot on the left with a small drinking water fountain at the corner. On the other side is the fence of Aeolos hotel. Checking the watch, it took us about 1 h.15` to descend from Zagora.

Horefto beach

         Now it`s time to return. Walking on the road to the north (to the left) along the seashore, just before it takes the left turn going to Zagora, we go left next to a market shop and walk on concrete way between houses, thus avoiding the asphalt and cutting the corner. We cross the asphalt and continue climbing steadily on concrete road next to Aegeus (AΙΓΕΥΣ) hotel, noticing a signpost to ''Zαγορά'' (Zagora) at the corner. That road has a stone paved central lane. After five minutes the concrete ends, revealing the kalderimi that was underneath. 

        We pass next to an underground water tank on the left of the kalderimi, which keeps climbing until it joins an earth road at an angle (for information, if we go left here, after 100 m. we shall meet an alternative path that joins the main route further up). We keep on the main route, walk to the right, and in 50 m. go left uphill at a junction. If we look carefully at the road, we shall see some traces of kalderimi. The road keeps climbing with zigzags, then joins another road and we go right. In 50 m. we go left uphill at another junction. Again we see bits of kalderimi as the road passes by a grove on the right, then comes an uphill section of concrete and we reach an irrigation ditch. Here the alternate path joins in from the left. On the right, a wide and clear kalderimi appears and we follow it. Soon it becomes concrete road again, climbing steadily on a straight line. 

Old stone house on the way to Sotira

        We pass by an old derelict stone house, then the road turns right and 150 m. after the turn (attention), noticing the red marks, we go left on a narrow road and immediately right, to a path that soon joins the kalderimi. Further up, it opens out at an earth road on a bend, and continues to the right. Climbing in chestnut forest, the kalderimi suffers from landslides (attention), and finally opens to an earth road next to a horse stable and a hiker signpost. In a few meters we join a wider uphill road, that leads to the church of Metamorphosis, also called Sotira by locals. The present church was built in 1889 to replace the old one, dating from 1168 AD (the oldest church in Zagora), after its total destruction by landslides and fire.

Metamorphosis church  (Sotira) 

        We enter the church yard, climb the stairs and happily reach a drinking water fountain. After quenching our thirst, we climb a few more steps and join an uphill concrete road that features a centre lane of kalderimi, named Voltou street (ΒΟΛΤΟΥ). That finally opens to the main asphalt of Zagora, at the corner of hotel ''Anasa''. If we walk on the asphalt to the left, in 10 minutes we will be back to the main square of Agios Georgios.

Agios Georgios square at Zagora

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Tsagarada-Damouchari-Ai Giannis (Agios Ioannis)

Damouchari

 Distance: 4,3 km
Duration: 1.45' (walking time 1.15')
Altitude: from 480 m. (Agia Paraskevi, Tsagarada) to 0 m.
Signed with: a few signs and red paint marks
Drinking water on walk: yes (Agia Kyriaki fountain, Vainas fountain)

      Download GPS track:  from Wikiloc    from Everytrail

       This excellent walk will take us, on kalderimi, from the village of Tsagarada down to the small picturesque harbour of Damouchari (of Mamma mia! fame), and then to the nearby sandy beach of Papa Nero at Ai Giannis. After swimming into the crystal clear Aegean sea and eating at one of the local tavernas, we can return to Tsagarada by bus (check the timetables at: www.ktelvolou.gr) or taxi (+306944718863). We can also continue walking from Ai Giannis to Mouresi, Kissos, Anilio, or Horefto.

           Starting at the junction with the main asphalt, we are initially walking down the asphalt going to Agia Paraskevi square. After 100 m., as the road takes a right bend, we notice a yellow sign to Damouchari on the left. This is where the old cobbled stone path (kalderimi) starts. It is descending steadily, almost on a straight line, in a northeasterly direction among houses and chestnut trees.

           Crossing the asphalt twice, there is then a small stretch covered by concrete, but the kalderimi soon emerges again  and reaches a monumental marble fountain built in 1907, just above Agia Kiriaki church. The small square with the plane tree next to the church is sadly deserted.

Agia Kiriaki church

            The kalderimi zigzags to the left to pass by the church, then crosses the asphalt again and continues downhill beautifully into dense chestnut forest. We pass a stream over a small concrete (formerly wooden) bridge that lies on stone bases, next to the fountain of Vainas. Climbing the slope, we exit the forest and join a narrow asphalt road that comes from the left, to get the first view of the Aegean. Looking to the north, we can see the coastline as far as to the village of Pouri. The asphalt stops and we continue straight ahead on an earth road for a few meters, then the kalderimi reappears on the left, next to a fence.

View to the north

             A little further down, we reach a wooden kiosk. On the left a small stone balcony is built, where one can sit in quiet and admire the view to the sea. As the kalderimi zigzags its way down, we can feel the sea breeze and hear the waves that hit the rocky coast below.

           A path crosses on the right, going towards Krifo Scholio and Fakistra beach. There is a protective low stone wall built on the outer side, because the slope is very steep. Eventually, we come to pass the Chalorema stream over a wooden bridge. As if to justify its name (Chalorema=destroying stream), the stream has destroyed the concrete lane on which we walk at the other side.

Chalorema stream

           In a few meters we reach the beach of Damouchari, under the ruins of the old castle. Walking on flat stone paved path parallel to the sea, we pass just above the small port, the only place in the east Pelion area where a ship could safely dock. Some scenes of the movie ''Mamma mia'' were shot here in 2007 and there are happy pictures of the taverna owner with Meryl Streep.

Damouchari port

         A little further on, as a concrete road continues to the right, we notice the kalderimi climbing to the left. It soon opens at the entrance of Damouchari on the asphalt road which we follow, leaving the village. After about 300 m., there is a junction next to a fountain, where we go right. We then come to a point where a wooden kiosk is next to the asphalt. Here on the right a narrow concrete road leads to ''Katerina'' tourist accomodation. The kalderimi is descending just left to this road and then left to the entrance of Katerina, and we soon find ourselves at the south end of the magnificent sandy beach Papa Nero of Ai Giannis.
          As an epilogue, I will quote the late Nikos Haratsis, from his milestone book ''A hiker`s guide to Mt.Pelion'' (1995): ''Those who walk this path are fortunate. They are sure to find many pleasant surprises in their way. No matter how far they drift from Pelion, its memory never fades away. So joy to those who choose to walk down this path, that is hard to find anywhere else''.  

Papa Nero beach

Promiri-Platanias

Distance: 6,1 km
Duration: 2 hours (walking time 1.45')
Altitude: from 233 m. (start) to 285 m. (max) to 0 m. (Platanias)
Marked with: large signs, small round signs, red marks
Drinking water on walk: yes

Download  GPS track:   from Wikiloc    from Everytrail     

       UPDATE 1/2025: After the floods the path is cut off at the stream near Promiri and remains impassable. We are working on a bypass.

    An easy and beautiful walk on a stone path beside a stream with running water, descending to the beach of Platanias in the Aegean sea. Platanias, like the nearby beach Mikro (a 10-minutes walk through coastal path), is a tourist destination and has restaurants and lodgings. We can return by bus (www.ktelvolou.gr). From Platanias one can continue walking to Mikro and Hondri Ammos beach, and also to Lafkos. 

 

      Βeginning at the entrance of Promiri, walking on the asphalt to Lafkos, a few meters after the gas station watching on the left, we find the stone path that descends gently to the slope. As we come near the bed of the stream, set down below is Kanalakia fountain. Walking through the wooded ravine, we pass to the left side and continue slightly uphill to the south, in a heavenly setting.

 

       Eventually, we meet the asphalt road that goes to Platanias, and follow it for about 50 meters downhill. Then turn right on the earth road that goes to the monastery of St. Spyridon. After 200 m. still on this road, we meet the path on the left, and it soon meets the road again. We pass under the chapel of St Sophia, then find the stone path again on the left side.

     Now another beautiful stretch begins, going down right next to the stream. There is another fountain on our left, at an area called Randi. We pass three signed intersections with paths to St Spyridon, Vodin and Mousges and continue on the main kalderimi, that goes out for a while on an earth road and again continues to the left. We already view the Aegean sea, having on our left a wooded hillside with some cottages.

    The stone path ends at a concrete tank below, to the point where two streams come together. We continue on an uphill road, having on the right the fence of a cottage. At the upper corner of the fence we find the kalderimi, that descends for a few meters and then finally stops and becomes a footpath next to a low stone wall (pezoula). Then we pass on the right side of the stream and continue among olive trees.

 

     Here the trail is not so obvious, but we generally follow the course of the stream to the sea in a southerly direction, assisted by signs and red marks. Further on, we pass to the left side of the stream and walk on earth road.

     Eventually, we reach a point  just next to the stream, where the earth road turns left uphill to meet the asphalt, next to a road sign ''Have a Nice Trip-Welcome to Platanias''(we don`t take that route). In front of us is a private property. At this point we enter into the riverbed on the right, which is normally dry and fairly easy (and pleasant) to walk on, and follow it for about 700 m. until it opens to the beach of Platanias.

Platanias

Αfissos-Niaou (Afetes)

Niaou (Afetes)

Distance: 5,1 km
Duration: 2 hours (incl. return), walking time 1.35'
Altitude: from 0 m. (Afissos) to 252 m.(Niaou square)
Marking: red marks, round yellow signs
Drinking water on walk: Niaou square

Download GPS track:    from Wikiloc     from Everytrail

      In this route, we climb from the seaside resort of Afissos to the picturesque village of Niaou (original village name of slavic origin, meaning pen, still in use by locals-officially called Afetes) following a dry riverbed, an exciting and beautiful walk, (which, for obvious reasons, is best avoided if the weather is rainy). Then we return to Afissos on  the course of the main kalderimi (stone paved path), most of which is now sadly covered by asphalt, passing by an old stone bridge and the village`s cemetery, enjoying  spectacular views of Afissos and the sea on our way down.

      Starting at Abovos beach just south of Afissos, from the corner of Marabou restaurant, we walk on the concrete road away from the sea, initially heading east. After 700 m. the road takes a sharp right bend becoming asphalt and continues towards Niaou. At this point, we walk straight ahead in a northerly direction on an earth road and at a fork we go left. The road goes by the side of Chalorema stream and soon, following the red marks and the signs, we find ourselves walking into the riverbed, surrounded by the rocky banks under the cool shade of high trees, birds singing and all. It is an exciting experience and not too demanding, although we must exercise caution not to slip on the rocks, especially if they happen to be wet. There are some sections of path on the sides of the stream left or right, and another stream (Kalarites) eventually joins from the right (we go left there).

Chalorema ravine

      After about 1,5 km of walking in these slightly adventurous conditions, we reach stone steps on the right. Using these, we climb on the rock, to find a kalderimi climbing steeply to the right. If we are on the opposite course (that is, from Niaou to Afissos),  we should apply high caution here not to slip on the way down if the stones are wet.

Kalderimi climbing to Niaou square

     Further up, we pass by an old fountain named Karkanteli, then cross a concrete road and continue climbing on kalderimi that leads us to the village square and the main church of St. John the Baptist.

Niaou (Afetes) village square

        A stop at the taverna for a refreshment or something to eat is welcome, and then we continue next to the church on flat stone paved road. As we reach the parking lot, we turn immediately left, to find a narrow downhill kalderimi that leads to the stone arched bridge of Fragakis, over the homonymous stream.

Fragakis stone bridge at Niaou

      On the other side, we continue uphill on road-kalderimi in a southwesterly direction and exit the village.

Leaving Niaou, on the way to the cemetery

      Passing by the cemetery on the right, the kalderimi then opens to an asphalt road, on which we walk downhill, between olive groves. Further down, as the asphalt takes a sharp left bend, there is a small stretch of kalderimi marked with red spots and a sign (attention left), conveniently cutting the corner.
      After another 500 m. on the asphalt, we reach a newly built tourist accomodation (Karavia Lux Inn).

       Here, instead of continuing onto the asphalt all the way down, we suggest to follow an alternate, more pleasant route. So, at the upper corner of Karavia we turn right on a narrow downhill earth road next to the fence. Soon another earth road joins from the left and we continue straight ahead, having another fence on the left, then a low stone wall. We turn left following the stone wall and then right on the downhill path that opens to an asphalt road at the outskirts of Afissos.

Looking down to Afissos

       After 100 m. on the asphalt, we turn left to a concrete road that further down is paved with flat stones. At the end we turn right and immediately left at the corner of ''The Garden of Eden'' guesthouse, into a wider stone paved road that opens to Afissos square, facing the sea.

Afissos square

       Walking now on the coastal road to the left, we will get back to Abovos beach in five minutes.

Abovos beach