This is a long trek in Pelion, absolutely the longest walk from one village to another. On our way, we pass from the monasteries of Sourvia and Flamouri and over the stone bridge of Leschiani. Vegetation is varied: kermes oak, maquis, oak, chestnut, beech and holm oak forest. The best part of the walk is undoubtedly in the beautiful beech forest between Sourvia and Flamouri monasteries.
Starting from the square in Makrinitsa,
we ascend the kalderimi behind the church, in an easterly direction
initially, and at a junction with a sign to the Koilia mansion we go up
to the left (the other kalderimi straight ahead leads to the church of the
Panagia). At the next junction we turn right onto a narrower
kalderimi next to an old drinking water fountain with no water and
continue uphill (if we were to go straight on, we would come out to the
graveyard and then, following a cement road, would reach the road junction-see further on). We pass a second drinking water fountain, again
without water, and continue on the kalderimi, taking the more steeply
ascending branch at any junctions. We eventually come out onto a
cement road at the top of the village where we turn left and then
immediately up to the right at the junction (this is where the cement
road from the cemetery comes out). We continue uphill and in a few metres we find ourselves
next to a tree with a red mark that indicates the path section. It zigzags
upwards and comes out at a fork in the road where there is a shrine and an unrestricted view of the horizon.
We continue ahead on the road again to the
north, leaving a tank of the water system on our
right (from which the path to Prophitis Elias chapel-Trano Isoma begins). After a hut (attention left!), we follow
the red marks and find the path on the left, cross the stream of
Patosia and then immediately turn right to the north. The path, on
which bits of kalderimi are discernable from time to time, climbs through kermes oak vegetation and further on emerges diagonally onto an
earth road, which we follow northwards.
At a crossroads, we
cross another earth road and climb in a northwest
direction to the hill in front of us. The path here is not very clear,
but the red marks help to find our way. We don`t climb to the top of the hill, but rather walk around it from the left side. At the distance in front of us to the north,
we can make out two large kermes oak trees. This
place is known as Panayias Pournari and we head towards it.
We emerge at an angle onto an earth road, which we follow
until we reach a water trough next to a water ditch. From there we
ascend a rocky slope on an unclear path. We soon reach the ridge and,
leaving on our right side one of the oaks which is a distance of about
20 metres away, we begin to descend, passing next to another big kermes oak on our left. Here the
path is better defined.
Finally, we emerge onto a road,
which immediately comes to a junction with a water trough at location called Nifis mnima (“bride`s grave”). In front of the trough runs the earth road that
leads from Agios Onoufrios towards the springs Kaliakouda and
Xirakia. We cross this and climb on the other bank on a path
that initially isn’t clear, following the red marks. We soon find a clearly
defined path and head northwest, between kernes oak vegetation. At some point, we pass very close to the edge of the large ravine of Kaliakouda which is on our right. Further down, walking in an almost westerly direction, we eventually come out into the large clearing of Loutsa, next to a deserted pen. To our right is a water pond
and to our left is a characteristic lone tree, the only one in that area, next to a
threshing floor with a cement pole (altitude 692 m.). In
the
distance,
lake
Karla
can
be
seen
. Here we cross with the route
Fitoko-Lagonika-Pouri, which goes to the northeast.
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The ravine of Kaliakouda |
We cross the
clearing heading northwest, passing by an old well, and on
the other side find the path, which appears eroded by water at its
start. Descending with zigzags, we meet sections of kalderimi and eventually come to the three-arched bridge of Leschiani, one of the four stone bridges
over the ravine of Kaliakouda. This is a proud work of art and
craftmanship, a monument to the place where it stands. Constructed at
time unknown (possibly during the second half of the 19th century), based firmly on the rocks of the river banks, expertly made to
withstand the erosion of time and the flooding torrent. And indeed, it still survives in very good condition.
|
The stone bridge of Leschiani |
Five minutes after the bridge, we reach the small
settlement of Leschiani and the church of Panagia (Virgin Mary). The water fountain next to the large plane tree dates from 1888 according to the inscription,
but there usually is no running water (we may take water from one of the cottages if necessary). Here we join an earth road, ascending
slightly. To our right an uphill earth road branches heading to the Sourvia
monastery. We don`t take this, but go straight ahead (attention) and in a few metres, at the corner of
the fence, turn left and walk on a wide path initially, that narrows and starts climbing as it enters into oak forest.
|
Oak forest above Leschiani |
Following the red marks, we eventually reach the monastery of Sourvia. Dedicated to the Holy Trinity, this was built in the 16
th
century by Saint Dionysius of Olympus. In 1878 the
monastery was burnt after a battle between Greek revolutionaries and
Turks, and in 1943, during the German occupation, a press was operating by Greek Resistance forces into the church. Today, half ruined
and without monks, it is administered by the monks of Flamouri monastery.
Restoration work is undergoing.
|
Sourvia monastery |
After a necessary break for rest and
to enjoy the wonderful view, we climb up from the eastern side of the
monastery and find a path heading north into mixed oak and beech forest.
Further on we come to a clearing and continue in the same direction in beech forest, following the frequent red marks. After walking a
fair distance on a beautiful path, we join a road that was opened
for logging. Where it turns to the right, the path continues straight ahead for a short distance and comes
out onto a wider road that comes from Ano Kerasia and goes towards
Kokinogia, Ovrios beach and Pouri. We cross the road, continue on the path
and soon reach the road again. In a few metres there is a
junction where we turn right to the northeast. After fifty metres,
looking to our left (attention!), we see the path entrance at the side of the road with red
marks and a small metal sign.
|
Walking in beech forest |
Following the red marks, we eventually come out at a water spring and a wide
path-kalderimi. Descending on this through chestnut forest, we reach the Monastery of Flamouri
in a few minutes. Built at the end of the 16
th century by
Saint Simeon, it is one of the few remaining monasteries in Greece with no direct road
access or electricity, yet still functioning normally (it has four monks).
It follows the athonite rules and therefore excludes women from entering inside. Male visitors however are welcome inside and will also be offered
hospitality for the night upon request. Restoration work is
in progress here too. It celebrates on 6th of August (Transfiguration of Christ the Saviour).
|
Flamouri monastery |
From the entrance to the monastery we continue
on the wide path which soon begins to descend (we ignore uphill
paths off to the right), incorporating sections of kalderimi. We pass a yellow sign on our right showing the way to Koromilia peak and the monument of Alfons. Further down we reach another junction with a small sign in Greek (attention!).
Straight ahead, a path continues towards the old ruined monastery dock of Agios Nikolaos by the sea. We take the left branch, descending to cross
the river bed and walk along the other bank to reach Petrialo,
an open rocky area with a view over the sea.
Continuing on
the path, always marked with red dots, we descend to cross a large river bed,
Kakorema, and ascend on kalderimi at the other bank. The path
continues in a thick forest with holm oak trees (a virtual tunnel of vegetation), until we finally come out
onto an earth road, on which we walk to the left, entering
Veneto. The village square, where we will normally find a restaurant open
(tel. 6974907595 or 6989612016), is to the right of the road down some
steps. Recently, accomodation in Veneto is also available (Apartments Veneto).
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Veneto |